Monday, April 1, 2013

Taking Care Of Business (Mar. 2013)

Another eclectic collection of mostly good, fun stuff
Koehler-Ruprecht, Pfalz, Kallstadter Samaugen, Riesling Auslese, 2001

There's a compelling, complex aromatic richness (quince, apples, a hint of kerosene and an even lighter trace of botrytis), that belies the finesse and elegance offered by both the bouquet and the palate. The sweetness is starting to recede, allowing a savory note to complement the finish. A convincing, idiosyncratic statement of vineyard and winemaker, that deftly balances sweetness and salinity. (Mar. 1, 2013)

Giaconda, about 160 NIS.

Avidan, Fringe, Pinot Noir, 2009

Ex-territorial Pinot fruit that someone had the good sense not to over-manipulate, so you get mellow red and black raspberries, with soft tannins that seem to disappear and re-appear on a whim. There's a trace of earthy herbs, and beyond that it's not really a very serious wine, but it's a tasty, handy wine to have around. (Mar. 2, 2013)

A. et P. de Villaine, Cote Chalonaise Rouge, La Digoine, 2008

A quite fragrant nose. Red fruit, flowers and sous de bois. This is a wine that needs time and air to fill out and come into focus, and so it's quite a while before the palate makes its proper impression on the taste buds: which is about sweet (but not cloying) Pinot fruit and a lean frame robed in silk that culminates in a fairly long, saline finish. (Mar. 2, 2013)

Burgundy Wine Collection, 140 NIS.

Domaine de la Vougeraie, Bourgogne, Terres de Famille, 2010

Even Tomer Gal's catalog says this is a wine for uncomplicated, fun drinking. And it's true, there's nothing very serious about it - just a fun and tasty drop, offering both an introduction to Burgundy and to the Vougeraie house style: crunchy, savory fruit with a mineral vein, a ripe, balanced acidity and a clean, saline finish. (Mar. 3, 2013)

Burgundy Wine Collection, 120 NIS.

La Bastide Blanche, Bandol, 2010

This is a hearty, old school wine, bold fruit with a touch of barnyard that morphs into meat and charcoal, with its 14.5% ABV thankfully not obvious. Its grainy, rusty tannins are balanced by the fat fruit - fat, not ripe - and I know I should have waited four-five more years, had my curiosity not gotten the best of me. (Mar. 4, 2013)

About 20 GBP.

A.F. Gros, Pommard Premier Cru, Pezzeroles, 2002

With its dark color and intense length, this is more of a showcase of extracting a decent cop out of Pinot Noir than it is about Bourgogne. Not the most terrible thing, but something in the makeup and flavors leaves me longing for a bit more of the profound, and this just isn't open-ended enough for that. (Mar. 8, 2013)

WineRoute, about 200 NIS.

Midbar Winery, 55, Red, 2008

The ripe currants and cranberries on the nose are nicely complemented by a pungent mineral streak, almost akin to gunpowder. Similarly, the palate keeps the 14.5% ABV and any ripeness in check. This cute Bordeaux blend is dominated by its 57% Merlot, coming across almost like a lean Right Banker. (Mar. 10, 2013)

Domaine de la Vougeraie, Cote de Beaune, Les Pierres Blanches, 2010

Ahhhh... this is why I love Bourgogne. Even at a relatively simple level of breed, depth and complexity, a good producer can produce such lovely results! This has black dainty black raspberries complemented by a lovely note of pungent earth. The palate is sappy and savory, well balanced by the acidity and silky tannins. The end result is eminently drinkable, and likable with not a hint of sycophancy. (Mar. 14, 2013)

Burgundy Wine Collection, 140 NIS.

Emrich-Schonleber, Nahe, Monzinger Halenberg, Riesling Spatlese, 2007

Starting out mute aromatically and overly broad on the palate (but even then, utterly delicious), it quickly shows mint, slate, chalk, apples  - the usual suspects, in other words. I shouldn't have yielded to temptation; as it emerges from its shell, it shows enough purity and finesse beneath the baby fat, as well as juicy, focused acidity, to hint at a promising future a few years down the road. (Mar. 15, 2013)

Giaconda, 160 NIS.

Recanti, Wild Carignan Reserve, 2010

Beneath a dense facade, laden with mineral, sanguine notes, is tasty, earthy black fruit, with meaty, savory tannins and lively acidity. I'm a fan, but judging by the indifferent reaction on the part of the neophytes round the table, I would cellar it for a couple of years before serving it to the uninitiated. (Mar. 16, 2013)

140-150 NIS.

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