Saturday, April 20, 2013

Bourgogne Crown Whites (Apr. 2, 2013)

Alain Chavy -
who made the tasting's wine of the night

This just about completes my overview of this boutique importer. Due diligence time again: co-owners Daniel Lifshitz and Dan Roman are good friends (but I've already written that in the past). Having said that: guys, this is the fourth post I've devoted to you over the last few months. I'm giving it a rest now.

But I'm always open to bribes...

This tasting had more misses than its red counterpart. I've stated my mistrust of white Burgundy before, so you could say I'm biased.

Of course, you could also say this proves me right.

Domaine Hubert Lamy St. Aubin, La Princee, 2011

Opens slowly to show lime, grass, nuts, some hints of oak. Good acidity on the palate but the fruit is still dromant. Lovely potential, but I rather liked it more at home. 190 NIS.

Domaine Matrot, Meursault, 2010

Typical Meursault on the nose, with notes of chalk, clay and citrus taking it in in a less classical direction. Elegant on the palate, yet taut and edgy. Very young and not really approachable. 280 NIS.

Domaine Buisson-Charles, Meursault Vieilles Vignes, 2010

Interesting. A hint of guayava and citrus, subtler and deeper minerality. Purity of fruit on both nose and palate. Like all the wines so far, there is a fine bedrock of acidity in here. 300 NIS.

Domaine Hubert Lamy, St. Aubin Premier Cru, Clos du Meix, 2010

Enter the true Bourgogne. Lovely reductive stink and notes of Atlantic salt on both nose and palate. Energetic grip. I fervently checked my emails to Daniel on my iPhone during the tasting to make sure I'd ordered a bottle - how's that for an informal score? 280 NIS.

Domaine Alain Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Folatieres, 2010

Like the previous wine, this proves how obvious the inherent quality of a Premier Cru can be. Restrained tropical fruit and a stinky mineral note not unlike the Clos du Meix. A winner, this is a white Bourgogne that I'd buy. 360 NIS.

Domaine Matrot, Meursault Premier Cru, Charmes, 2010

Slightly oxidized on the nose, yet the palate is almost surprisingly fresh. Still, disappointing. 400 NIS.

Domaine Buisson-Charles, Meursault Premier Cru, Goutte d'Or, 2010

Corky. 500 NIS FWIW.

Domaine Rapet, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, 2010

Restrained yet mineral laden (sea salt to be preciset). Balanced and elegant. Sweet  fruit on the nose, yet saline on the palate (that sea salt again). A wine that thrives on innuendo. And delicious too! 600 NIS.

Domaine Alain Chavy, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, 2009

Subtle minerals. Very restrained. A wine to sip slowly. The Platonic ideal of Bourgogne whites. 1300 NIS.

Domaine Hubert Lamy, Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, 2008

Opens slowly. Still burdened by oak, but there's a solid bedrock of fruit and minerals. The domaine only make half a barrel of this, so I should be grateful for a taste, I suppose, but it's still a disappointment coming after the Chavy Chevalier. And Daniel did open both hours and hours in advance. Not for sale, no price given.

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