Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Taking Care Of Business (Jan. 2013)


Chateau Siran, Margaux Bourgeois Cru, 2000

This is 2000 (a ripe, deep, seductive vintage) and Margaux (arguably the most seductive of the Left Bank appellations), yet this is harsh, almost under-ripe, showing only occasional flashes of charm and savoriness.

I don't know about this. 2000. Should be much better, (Jan. 3, 2012)

WineRoute, 160 NIS (ten years ago).

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru, La Chatenière, 2010

I always hope a lesser-known appellation will prove cheaper and earlier to mature (thus a safer buy) than Puligny, Chassagne, Meursault et al. This certainly seems ready to go and delivers a solid Bourgogne experience; even if it doesn't have the presence or depth of a big-name Premier Cru, it does offer decent complexity and taste, and a sly, subtle savoriness on the finish which is what I look for in white Burgundies. Stylistically, it offers dried grass and a hint of Atlantic salt, with the fruit falling somewhere between green apples and citrus fruit.

Nice, and I'm tempted to re-purchase and age for a year or two. (Jan. 4, 2013)

WineRoute, 210 NIS.

Faustino, Rioja Gran Reserva I, 1999

On its way up or over the hill? This wine will split public opinion. As for me, even though 1999 wasn't a great year in Rioja, and even though Faustino is not the biggest name in the area, I find this wine is still not expressing its full potential. Right now, it has tart cherries, herbs, savory tannins and juicy, acidity driven fruit making for a tasty drop, yet it doesn't express the full depth and complexity of mature Rioja. But its evolution in glass - much greater weight and presence as well as nuances of chocolate and tobacco leaves - is the reason  I'm optimistic. And WineRoute offers it this month at a price that will at the very least will allow me to gamble on my optimism. (Jan. 5, 2013)

WineRoute, 3 for 300 NIS discount.

Recanati, Reserve, Syrah-Viognier, 2010

A delectable, inviting, elegant wine, that is fluent in both the Mediterranean and Northern Rhone idioms.  (Jan. 10, 2013)

120-150 NIS.

Clos de Gat, Har'el Syrah, 2010

Young and succulent fruit, with typical black pepper, its ripeness on the bearable side. Oaky, but in a complimentary way, and anyway Syrah almost always wears a reasonable amount of oak well. Very Israeli, its jamminess working very well in the context of the idiom, restraining what might be an indulgence in other winemakers' hands.

210 NIS at Hudson (usually retails for 120-140 NIS).

Paolo Scavino, Barolo, 2001

Sporting typical spicy-dusty aromatics and lithe tannins that mitigate what would otherwise be an overwhelming 14.5% ABV, this is rustic enough to avoid modernism. Tasty. (Jan. 17, 2013)

WineRoute, about 200 NIS.

Domaine Huet, Vouvray, Pétillant Brut, 2005

I've been drinking this for two years, and as this cutie begins its eighth year, I grow despondent over the prospects of keeping my hands off the remaining two bottles for much longer. Which is sad, because I've seen it through its lively youth, and now, as the mousse grows softer and more subtle, it's showing a depth of character that seems a refinement of every Loire Chenin Blanc I've had so far. I should really try to curb my appetite, but it's so damn delicious. (Jan. 23, 2013)

Giaconda, 140 NIS.

Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin, La Princee, 2011

I was going to post it on the Bourgogne Crown post, but this wine was slated for a couple of years in the fridge, and then I grew impatient, as is my wont. So here it is here. This is still at the stage where the Chardonnay is still young, showing quasi-tropical notes behind the more typical green apples. An overlay of minerals is already apparent on both nose and palate, especially on the palate, where the finish is pleasantly saline. In need of a few years of fine-tuning, so I guess I'll need to buy another bottle. Should develop quite nicely. (Jan. 25, 2013)

Bourgogne Crown, 190 NIS.


Rebholz, Pfalz, "R”, Blanc de Noir Sekt, Pi Gold, Brut, 2006

This smells vividly Pinot-ish, with the spicy earthiness of a Gevrey or a Nuits, and tastes incredibly light and refreshing in contrast, despite an obviously yeasty undertow. (Jan. 27, 2013)

Giaconda, 190 NIS.

Muller-Catoir, Pfalz, Haardter Bürgergarten, Riesling Spätlese Trocken, 2007

This excited me more rather  the past, but it is still damn fine. The nose needs some coaxing, but shows green apples, slate and a developing hint of petrol. The palate walks the razor edge between dry and semi-sweet, culminating in finish of green apple skin. (Jan. 31, 2013)

Giaconda, 160 NIS.

2 comments:

bob68 said...

I am very curious about the Colin Morey range.
The combination of non prestigious region and an unorthodox attempt to prevent premox (wider cork, wax capsule) looks promising.
I found the basic village wine Ebaupins uninspiring.
The Chateniers marked by pronounced saltiness, mineral notes and acidity is delicious. It looks as if it may age gracefully.
I intend to try some of his negos Chassagnes. Interesting if his "forte" is limited only to Saint Aubin.

2GrandCru said...

I'm not sure what his forte is, but if there's something we need to be available locally, it's producers off the beaten track, who do specialize in the less renowned villages, who can provide with an interesting product at affordable prices. Good wines are easier to find than interesting wines, and what I miss is the interesting wines. If you take the premier and grand crus out of the equation, there's no reason a priori to assume that a Chassagne or a Meursault would be better and more interesting than a St. Aubin or a St. Romain,