Monday, February 18, 2013

Chablis Time!

Chablis - now and then there's a fool such as I
Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Clos, 2006

A good Chablis Grand Cru is one of the best values in the wine world. It should have a solid volume - which doesn't necessarily impress me - as well aptly defined form and texture - which always do. This Les Clos has all of that. The body is ample and rich, yet focused and refined, and, like the nose, detailed and complex. The aromas are alluring and captivating, showing a mineral tapestry rich in marine nuances, and while there is an obvious presence of oak, it is in the background, where I am sure it will one day full submerge. After the initial burst of air, though, it grows steadily dumber, in a way that suggests it wants to return to its slumber for a few more years. (Valentine's Day, Feb. 14, 2013)

WineRoute. Prices have climbed up from 250 NIS to 350, but this was actually offered at a very appealing price of 180 NIS or so.

Dauvissat, Chablis Premier Cru, La Forest, 2006

Obviously a Chablis that leans heavily on sea shells and lime. Obviously, as well, one that saw oak. There is ample complexity and finesse on the nose, but the palate is more about fruit peels than fruit - until a couple of hours of air reveal the same complexity and finesse there as well. At this point, perhaps not a better wine than the Les Clos, but certainly the more idiosyncratic, the more sublime.  (Feb. 17, 2013)

Burgundy Wine Collection. A wine whose price list has slowly crept up from 220 NIS to 260, thus keeping it on the relatively conservative side of the price growth curve.


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