Can You Ever Go Back?

Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Le Crau, 2004

This wowed me years ago, both it and the 2001, and seemed like an elegant expression of the Southern Rhone. I still like it for its depth, but how un-evolved my palate must have been for me to find elegance in this unruly beast. Even after a few hours of slow-ox, I can find an interesting mix of blood and garrigue, but hardly any finesse beneath the muscle-bound armor. But it turns out, I still like it, despite the low acidity and the vagueness of its form. Maybe it's the sanguine finish. However, it will never capture my heart and imagination like it did in 2004. And yet... that finish is appealing. (Feb. 2, 2013)

WineRoute, 250 NIS.