Sunday, January 13, 2013

Damn, Grand Crus Can Be Great - And Tondonia Doesn't Suck, Either! (Jan. 6, 2013)

Welcome to Gevrey - have nice day!

Daniel Lifshitz put together yet another great tasting, at Raphael at Tel Aviv, which I hadn't visited in over two years. The theme was Gevrey-Chambertin (plus one palate calibrator and one special "guest star").

Meo-Camuzet, Fixin Premier Cru, Clos du Chapitre, 2005

Very Camuzet: dark fruit, spicy, not complex, but very mouth-filling and seamless. A touch over-ripe, though, and somewhat underwhelming for a Premier Cru, even for Fixin.

Burgundy Wine Collection, 250 NIS for recent vintages.

Alain Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin, Place des Lois, 2007

A simple nose with just decent complexity made lively by animalistic overtones. The palate is also on the simple side, short but tasty.

This is imported by Daniel, and his partner Dan Roman, by their new import business, Bourgogne Crown. It costs 320 NIS.

Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Lavaux St. Jacques, 2001

A ripe and exotic nose, also with animalistic notes. Nuanced despite the ripeness. A Brave New World in Burgundy ?

Burgundy Wine Collection started importing Mortet a couple of years ago. This typically sells for about 600 NIS.

Domaine Fourrier,  Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Clos St. Jacques, Vieilles Vignes, 2006

More intense and complex than the Mortet, with less ripeness and more finesse. High class.

Louis Jadot, Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru, 2001 (labelled as Chambertin)

Ok, this is my wine, which I'd aged for years, so I want to be charitable about it, but... Takes hours to open and even then, it's hard to decide if it's over the hill or just in a bad spot. The nose is refined and insinuating, but both it and the palate lack punch. Weak.

WineRoute, this cost about 700 NIS seven, eight years ago. One of my biggest purchases, especially considering I spent less money on wine at the time.

Alain Burguet, Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru, 2007

A highly complex nose, sporting chicken broth and sous de bois, with fresh, red fruit. Clean fruit on palate, soft, focused tannins, integrated acidity. Structured, yet not obvious about it. A comfortably confident youngster.

Bourgogne Crown, 1300 NIS.

Robert Groffier, Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru, 2008

Sous de bois rendered with black, ripe colors. Good potential but doesn't ring my bells right now, despite it sporting the kind of restrained power I usually go for.

Prince unknown.

Armand Rousseau, Ruchottes, Clos des Ruchottes, 2000

A mediocre vintage, yet a great wine with that seems to still have a long life ahead of it. Animalistic and sous de bois aromatics. Savory tannins on the long finish with a mineral tint. Great presence and personality.Wow!

R. Lopez de Heredia, Vina Tondonia,  Rioja Gran Reserva, 1968

An an almost ethereal nose of vegetable stew that only gains presence and delineation in glass. Very tasty on the palate, with the slightly volatile acidity of a mature wine and a silky finish. A memorable experience.

This and the Rousseau were both purchased for the tasting from the Superdrink store in Ramat Hasharon for about 800 NIS.

No comments: