Going back to Alsace about a healthy diet of German and Austrian Rieslings is like going back to David Bowie after you've gotten into the Velvet Underground and Brian Eno.
Not that this is is, say Diamond Dogs. More like Station To Station, I guess, but no Low or "Heroes". The nose is compelling, with dill, spices, tea and petrol, the fruit in deep shadows, but the palate is where I feel let down, as is usually the case for me with the Alsatians. It feels constricted, attenuated, and while it holds some intellectual appeal, especially on the complex finish, it lacks sensual charm. The fruit fans out, eventually, but still feels one-dimensional and anorectic.
Giaconda, 220 NIS.