Albert Mann, Grand Cru Schlossberg, Riesling, 2007

Going back to Alsace about a healthy diet of German and Austrian Rieslings is like going back to David Bowie after you've gotten into the Velvet Underground and Brian Eno.

Not that this is is, say Diamond Dogs. More like Station To Station, I guess, but no Low or "Heroes". The nose is compelling, with dill, spices, tea and petrol, the fruit in deep shadows, but the palate is where I feel let down, as is usually the case for me with the Alsatians. It feels constricted, attenuated, and while it holds some intellectual appeal, especially on the complex finish, it lacks sensual charm. The fruit fans out, eventually, but still feels one-dimensional and anorectic.

Giaconda, 220 NIS.


Kelly Young said…
I think I still have a bottle of this in my cellar. While it's a nice wine the Furstentum from the same vintage is much better. "Storming" is the word I wrote down. More spicy, deeper consciousness prickling, etc. Your shinny, shinny, shinny boots of leather.

I love the Domaine, but the variation in quality, or not quality but my appreciation let's say, varies greatly between wines. The 2009 Pinot Gris from Furstentum is to me flabby, sweet, and sad. The one from *Hengst is party time. Zippy in that flowery, spicy Alsace kind of way.

*It's actually the 2008 Hengst I now note.
2GrandCru said…
I think he/she/they make very nice Pinot Gris, especially Furstenstrum, and I also liked their Gewurtz.

But they're on the expensive side, for me.