Monday, August 20, 2012

Summer Of Riesling (Aug. 6, 2012)


Toto's sommelier, Aviram Katz, the Fonz of the Israeli wine scene, came up with a local 'franchise' of the Summer Of Riesling event, dedicated to this, ahem, little known grape (of course, I hardly need a special event - I'd drink Riesling as often as possible even if I were living at the North Pole). Efrat and I enjoyed a short evening out and shared a few glasses together. Short, offhand notes follow.

Josef Leitz, Rheingau, Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck, Riesling Spätlese, 2004

Sweet and seductive, with peaches and notes of petrol. At the cusp where its fruitiness is starting to evolve into true maturity. I have two more at home which I'm going to very much enjoy in a couple of years.

Giaconda, 150 NIS.

Weingut Egon Muller, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Scharzhofberg, Riesling QBA, 2009

Red apples, as dry as Mose can get without losing its light, elegant charm. The QBA tag is misleading in Muller's case, I think the purity of the fruit suggests this is somewhere between Kabinett and Spatlese in quality.

Giaconda, 130 NIS.

Hirsch, Zobing, Riesling, 2009

Feeling ungainly right after the Muller, but its Austrian charms are persuasive and obvious: green apples, spices and chalk. I need to explore this one more.

Fat Guy, 119 NIS.

Carmel, Kayumi, Riesling, 2011

Very tropical on the nose, dry and mineral on the palate. A charming version of the grape.

Not sure about the price, 70 NIS?

Albert Boxler, Sommerberg Grand Cru, "D", Riesling, 2007

Quince, cherries, apples, spicy, full and complex. Dry, yet its intensity creates an illusion of sweetness. Excellent, only don't look for finesse, just complex stuffings.

Giaconda, 186 NIS.

The full menu, just to give you an idea of the breadth and depth and Aviram's orchestration.


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