Monday, July 16, 2012

Euro Cup Wines

I saved some big guns for the final four.

Domaine De La Vougeraie, Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Evocelles, 2005

A big vintage combined with a meticulous producer with a clear, expressive approach to wine-making makes for a stylish wine. And I guess there's a good parcel at work as well. A wonderful nose. There's Gevrey gaminess that is focused and restrained, as well as exotic spices. And of course red fruit. And red fruit, and some black fruit as the wine opens. The palate is balanced and savory, with ripe tannins that are a perfect counterpoint to the juicy fruit - and I like how the mineral-laden mouth-feel winds up in a sanguine finish; I like somewhat less the relatively low acidity. I saved this for the Spain-Portugal game. (June 24, 2012)

Burgundy Wine Collection, about 250 NIS at the time.

For the Spain-Italy Finals:

William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru, Bougros, 2005

The Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia says Bougros has the least frills of the all the Chablis Grand Cru, yet this is a few steps ahead of most of the Premier Crus in my collection, with a very vivid, detailed nose, that smells like Fevre strip mined the Kimmeridge soil: if you follow my Chablis notes then you know what to expect - fossils, sea breeze, green apples, apple skin - but the depth and intensity are on a totally different level. The palate is more of the same: saline, very long and penetrating, with the flavors echoing the aromas, and very poignant acidity for a vintage touted to be ripe and somewhat heavy. No frills? Maybe. But one hell of an intoxicating punch. (July 1, 2012)

WineRoute, 250-300 NIS.

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