There's the classic Meursault fingerprint of roasted hazelnuts, but what allows this wine to escape the confines of the paradigm are the mineral accents that wouldn't be out of place in Chablis, accents that abut a framework that is more about fruit skins than fruit per se. The very taut structure is driven by precise acidity and savory reserve. This is exactly what I love about white Bourgognes (when they successfully survive the cellar): milking finesse for all its worth, while playing the flavors with understatement.
And that's why I love wine. Not for the wines that are so expressive they grab your soul by the short and curlies and make you feel every sip is the kiss of life - although, what the hell, who wouldn't want to drink them all the time? - but for the less exalted wines that effortlessly express the feeling of well being that makes life's struggles, big and small, well worth enduring.
Hmmmm, at 250 NIS from Burgundy Wine Collection, this isn't exactly an every day wine, it's just that it's not a trophy wine. At any rate, an excellent value for a Villages Meursault.