Thursday, May 3, 2012

7GrandCru - The Daniel Lifshitz Revue Hits Vosne and Flagey (Apr. 23, 2012)


Happy Birthday, Daniel!
Welcome to Burgundy. I dare you to find a correlation between price and quality.

Vincent Girardin, Echezaux Grand Cru, 2004

Amazingly complex and fragnant, in an intense distillation of all things Bourgogne: red fruit, spices, meaty stink. Quite harmonious, elegant and long on the palate, with ripe acidity and succulent fruit. Undoubtedly Grand!

WineRoute, didn't get the price.

Michel Gros, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Clos des Reas, 2004

This Premier Cru is actually better than the Echezaux, despite - or because of? - the lighter body (not that the Girardin Echezaux was in any way ponderous). The nose is a little more finessed and clean, arguably a little less complex - yet with a touch of sous de bois to keep things interesting - while the palate has greater focus and length. Let's just say it does a lot within its ethereal frame.

Not imported but it looks to cost about 100 USD, so it's half the price of the other three wines I adored this evening.

At this point, we thought we were in for a night of great treats, but the Burgundy roller coaster was about to take a plunge.


A. F. Gros, Echezaux Grand Cru, 1998

Reticent and one dimensional. There's red fruit and spices on a relatively dense and lengthy frame, but nothing in there really makes it take off. Burgundy without any sex appeal, I guess.

I think WineRoute imports this, but I'm not sure.

Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanee, La Colombiere, 2005

The ripeness of the vintage makes the nose and palate bolder than the 04's, and it takes a while before the red fruit I look for in Bourgognes and Pinot in general appear. Right now, not a forthcoming performance, especially in regards to the the palate, which is meaty yet only a hint of finesse at best.

Not imported.

Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanee, 2007

Redder and more expressive on the nose than the La Colombiere. The palate, though, is too lean and too green on the finish for my tastes, and if I had to choose, I'd take the former. Although considering the cost, I'd pass on both.

Burgundy Wine Collection, 390 NIS.

Rene Engel, Vosne-Romanee, 2000

Interesting to examine, not a lot of fun to drink. The red fruit and spices are overwhelmed by caramel, then the fruit comes back, finally it goes away for good. So for five minutes, you get to try to guess how old this old lady is beneath the makeup.

Burgundy Wine Collection, probably 200 NIS when it came out. Recent vintages (under the Eugenie label) are 330 NIS.

Ann Gros, Echezaux Grand Cru, 2008

A lighter wine that takes time to open up. Simple red fruit on the nose, tasty on the palate but not a lot of presence or excitement. Although the palate does have length. This is a Grand Cru? No, really?

Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Aux Reignots, 2006

Black fruit, tar, cocoa at first - its Pinosity takes time to emerge: red fruit, leather and exotic spices. Powerful and long - graceful strength and complex depth. Excellent. One of my favorites.

Burgundy Wine Collection, 1000 NIS.

Rene Engel, Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru, 2003

Ripe and liquorish. Honeyed. Yeech.

Burgundy Wine Collection. The 2009 edition costs 1600 NIS.

Meo-Camuzet, Echezeaux Grand Cru, 2006

Red and sleek. I'm a fan of Meo, and I know he should be able to do better than this. I assume it's a matter of youth.

Burgundy Wine Collection. The 2009 is listed for 1100 NIS.

Drouhin, Echezeaux Grand Cru, 2006

A wilder nose, but banal, with less interest than the Meo. I can get a feel for the style here, but I can't get aroused. At least the Meo displays craftsmanship.

The Scottish Company, price unknown.

Domaine Leroy, Vosne-Romanee, 2004

Another of the declassified 2004's. I'm so sorry for the Madam's great personal loss, but I'm still not buying into the myth. The color is murky and the nose smells of orange fruit, not even red. Tasty and juicy, but not complex, not moving, and as usual, not worth the price of admission.

Burgundy Wine Collection, 1400 NIS.

Bouchard, La Romanee Grand Cru, 2004

Earthy and deep. The savory fruit smells and tastes moist, like dew on strawberries. Excellent.

WineRoute, price unknown.

Larmandier-Bernier, Vertus Premier Cru, Blanc de Blancs, Brut, n.v.

Strawberries, green apples and brioche, tasty and refreshing, even if not especially complex.

Boutique de Champagnes, this was a magnum, but a regular bottle sells for 269 NIS.


And did I mention two other Grand Crus were corky? Including my own Engel, Grands Echezeaux 1996?

Hundreds of dollars worth of TCA.


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