Monday, February 27, 2012
For The Very First Time In Israel - Domaine Baudry (Feb. 12, 2012)
Shvo, Chenin Blanc, 2010
This was on my shopping list and I'm glad to have finally tasted it, even if I found the quality not quite on par with the hype - but it sure is an interesting, "outside the box" approach. Let me give a short overview and then I'll explain what I find fascinating here. We have here a great nose, a mediocre palate: sweet peas and a light overlay of minerals and spices; heavy and tired on the palate.
What makes it unique is it seems to me that winemaker Gaby Sadan, whether intentionally or whether he let the raw material dictate the style, turned the Chenin fruit into a wine remeniscent of Rhone whites. There's the fatty feel of Viognier on the palate, yet there's also the veggy, spicy flavor of a white CdP just before it goes dumb.
Knoll, Wachau, Pied Loibenberg, Smaragd, Gruner Veltliner, 2001
A complex nose with great depth, impressing with honey and petrol. Fruitier than the Shvo, but not fruity in the sense that would appeal to the layman, I wish the palate was better, but at least it's dense with grapefruit.
Not imported to Israel, price unknown.
Deiss, Gewurztraminer, 2004
One of my favorite sluts, with sculptor clay in her make-up. Should spark a lot debate. Like any Gewurtz would.
Giaconda, 207 NIS.
Domaine Bernard Baudry, Chinon, Le Clos Guillot, 2009
My expectations of Loire reds (from what I read, from my limited experience) is that they should approach the claret form from a juicier, redder, leaner direction. Which is what we have here. Juicy red fruit, tobacco leaves on the nose. Very succulent, savory tannins, food friendly tannins. This, I reckon, is why Loire heads love Baudry.
This cost me about 30 USD in Chambers Street Wines in Manhattan. Here is a link to the domaine's site.
Vaniglia, La Famillia, 2010
Tasted after a few hours in decanter. A very Israeli nose, with carmel overtones. A very Israeli palate as well, reminiscent of Ido Lewinsohn's work: the fruit is black, the tannins are dusty and there's very good acidity, yet that Israeli sweetness is there as well.
Not for sale, as Itay is content to drink his stash with friends.