Jean-Paul Thevenet, Morgon, Vieilles Vignes, 2008 (Nov. 25, 2011)

An impromptu Thanksgiving dinner, just Efrat and I, in Tribeca.

Beaujolais Crus need to be appreciated for what they are, yet I can't help but make comparisons; despite being so one of a kind, at their best, they're hard to peg down without external references. Here, the sous bois and iron speak of Bourgogne, then a mineral note is echoed by cedar - which somehow evokes Bordeaux (not that a Bordeaux would ever rest on such a ephemeral frame)! The palate is compact and light, yet it doesn't seem hollow or incomplete, rather its weight is just right for it, just right to support the subtly spicy Gamay fruit and its savory, sanguine finish. As it turns greener after a couple of hours, I'd think this isn't a cellar candidate (even if you were tempted to cellar this low-sulphur wine in great Bojo vintages). Once again, all things taken into account, Thevenet proves to be a stellar example of Beaujolais, and while I imagine his star would shine anywhere, this seems like a perfect marriage of man and terroir. (Nov. 25, 2011)

Bought at Gordon Wines, Waltham, for about 30 USD.