A postcard from paradise
But first, something completely different:
Hagafen Cellars, Riesling, Wieruszowski Vineyard, 2007
Petrol, peaches and some red fruit. More limpid than the bottle I tasted at the winery three weeks ago (travel shock?) - not complex, nor deep, but tasty for sure.
Bouchard, Aligote, 2009
Sulphur-ish, lean and saline in a marine way that resembles Chablis, but is not quite there. The nose is better than the palate, but this is a fine quaffer. In the best sense of the word.
WineRoute, about 50-60 NIS.
Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Champs-Canet, 2003
A woefully complex nose with pleasant oxiditive notes and hints of white meat. Almonds on the palate! A 2003 wouldn't be my first choice for a Bourgogne white, but I'd drink up half a bottle of this, at least. Because it's tasty, and because the aftertaste is surprisingly lively.
Burgundy Wine Collection, the 2008 sells for 430 NIS.
Jobard, Meursault Premier Cru, Genevrieres, 2002
Aw, bugger! Another premox.
For years, Tomer Gal has been making promises about the aromas of white meat that lurk in the wines of Jobard, and the initial pour at home sure felt like it. However, by the time we drank up a few hours later, the wine, white meat and all, was dead and gone.
Burgundy Wine Collection, recent vintages cost about 400 NIS, but I probably paid a bit less, six years ago.
Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet Permier Cru, Ruchottes, 2002
The Chassagne feel is obvious even on the nose, with its rustic dry grass and flint, and also on the palate, which has typically coarse elegance. The nose grows more complex, more minerally and deeper. Deep and multi-layered on the palate. Simply excellent.
Burgundy Wine Collection, this cost me just 250 NIS six years ago. This used to be an amazing bargain; sadly, six years ago, 250 NIS was still steep for me, so I only bought one bottle.
Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne, 2001
Austere nose, mostly minerals, and very, very discrete fruit with a touch of floral sweetness. Tasty salinity; excellent length, without being overbearing; elegant without being very complex or deep. Coulda been a Puligny or a Les Clos. If this was a chick, she wouldn't be drop dead gorgeous, but you'd kill to feel the touch of her skin.
Burgundy Wine Collection, upward of 650 NIS.
Bouchard, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, 2004
Great minerality, complexity and depth on both nose and palate. Fantastic grip, length and almost surprising (in light of its power) finesse. Juicy acidity. A bit of marine minerals, which only grow deeper. A knockout.
WineRoute, about 700 NIS.
Bouchard, Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, 2006
As fruity as Bourgogne can get, with a hint of minerals that grows stronger. Very young. An impressive name, but today, not a wine that lives up to the price, although to be charitable, with a price tag like that, few wines could.
WineRoute, about 1400 NIS