Jean Paul et Benoit Droin, Chablis Premier Cru, Cote de Lechet, 2007
"Tonight we drink Chablis" is always a thought that pours a jar of sunshine unto any day that I've ever lived through, but I wasn't sure I wanted to open this specific wine. But I really wanted a Chablis, and there wasn't any bottle of Chablis in my fridge that seemed any more ready than any other Chablis. And I really wanted a Chablis.
And this is truly an arresting example. Take the aromatics. The foundation is the classic salty/marine/fossil combo, yet the pieces are stacked up a little more irregularly than is usual for Chablis (at least from my experience, and you have to take into account that I've rarely run into a Chablis that I didn't love), and thus make for more idiosyncratic permutations. The palate is very succulent, and even aggressive in its way, presenting a thrilling, barb-wire punch that powers lemon-inflected acidity and a saline aftertaste. I like it now, but presumably this will soften and settle down in years to come and allow more of that saline minerality to show through. (June 8, 2011)
Giaconda, 171 NIS.