Nicolas Joly, Savennieres, Les Vieux Clos, 2006 (May 2, 2011)

My Chenin-ometer flashed a red light: my stocks were running low. But I felt like I needed a wine with a punch on the day the Americans nailed Bin-Laden. Not that I'm particularly blood-thirsty, but the news reports had me really excited. Face it, years from now, my grandkids will ask me if I really lived through the 9-11 decade and I'll say "ummm, yeah", while I muse upon the wines I drank.

This is apple cider from Alice's Wonderland, heady and hedonistic, with mineral-laden and ashy notes complementing subversive green apples on the complex nose. The palate is sweetish, with surprising acidity and, even more surprising, a firm, savory grip at the end. I like it now more than I have in the past: it's in a very good place for me, its freshness belying its deep color and diesel-powered monolithism. Yeah, it's kind of a brute, but a really lovely brute.

Giaconda, 193 NIS.