In the event, it turned out to be an excellent wine, with all the complexity of a Cote d'Or Premier Cru, if not quite the stuffings of one. Not that I'm sure the style of these wines requires the same type and density of stuffing - Beaujolais are indeed similar to red Bourgognes yet have a different type of texture and thus don't need the cogwheels to be lined up the same way. Whatever, this is as good as the Lapierre, Morgon, 2009 and thus the best Beaujolais I've had so far.
The nose has fragrant red fruit, beets, sanguine, tobacco leaves, a melange of eastern spices and lightly pungent hints of coffee and freshly turned earth: I don't do grocery lists of aromas, but this wine simply kept its story going in installments all evening long. The palate has tightly focused purity of fruit that etches a long, saline finish with great precision. This feels like a lithe, classic old school wine that deserves time in the cellar that I'm unwilling to give it due to the producer's practice of administering only light doses of sulphur. Had regular imports been available, I'd have bought a six pack and gambled on a couple of bottles strategically tucked away in the coldest corners of my fridge.
About 25 euros.