This where the Chenin magic goes off on its own wild tangent. The nose is all apricots and melons that strut their stuff like nubile starlets on the Riviera, shrouded by wafts of sweet spices, sculptor's clay and flint. In short, a sexy, hedonistic wine, even if you were forced to make a call based solely on its aromatic virtues - but the good news is, it's just as complex and satisfying on the palate, while more reined in, which is a good thing. Lovely. (Nov. 2, 2010).
Giaconda, 130 NIS.
Josef Leitz, Rheingau, Rudesheimer Magdalenenkreuz, Riesling Spatlese, 2007
Bright and juicy as always,with a chalky and herbal notes contributing to a very decent complexity. (Nov. 5, 2010)
Giaconda, about 100 NIS.
Two weeks later:
Josef Leitz, Rheingau, Rudesheimer Magdalenenkreuz, Riesling Spatlese, 2006
No news is good news - and the 2006 continues to drink gorgeously. This is not a great wine but it's been very consistent across the various bottles and vintages that I've drunk. The 2006 is more advanced and mature than the 2007, with hints of dill, smoke and petrol over sugared apples, and gains length with a dose of air. (Nov. 20, 2010)
Giaconda, about 100 NIS.
Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet, 2005
I don't know quite what to make of this wine, as at present it is so wacky that it would would stump many tasters in a blind setting. The nose is barely recognizable as a Bourgogne: the dried grass, flint, hints of tropical fruit - as ingredients, they fit the Bourgogne mold, but not in the way they fit and work together in this context. The palate is piercing in its minerality and packed with spicy flavors, texturally resembling the more muscularly-styled Savenierres (Closel, Joly). I'm so glad I didn't buy any Ramonet Premier Crus in '05, they would have been too much for me. I think I'll stick to the cooler vintages with this producer. (Nov. 6, 2010)
Burgundy Wine Collection, about 150 NIS.
Martin Nigl, Kremstal, Privat, Gruner Veltliner, 2006
I had a Gewurtzraminer today, only apparently, they call it Gruner in Austria. Honestly, it has, here, the same ripe grapefruit/lychee/spicy nose and the same sweet, fat kick on the palate and the same quinine finish. Now, the structure is a little rounder and easier to get a grip of than your Alsatian Gewurtz, and it seems to offer enough extract to cushion that 14.5% ABV (which, frankly, I suspect is at least 15%) - but still, I'd drink it now, rather than later. Besides which, it seems to give up its secrets so easily, I feel that this one bottle has quite sufficed me. ( Nov. 11, 2010)
K&L Wines, 43 USD.
Deux Montilles, Meursault, Grand Charrons, 2004
I can't tell who the featured headliner is. There's fruit in the mix, but it's it's laid back and unassuming and, while a good portion of it might be spicy, baked pears, it's not trivial to pin down further specifics. Similarly, there's a subtle hint of minerals but it, too, remains elusive. Ditto any spiciness and, thankfully, any oaky contribution. In the end, everything component is subservient to a silky, elegant savory whole, which would be not be out of place in Puligny or Chablis. Subtly complex. (Nov. 15, 2010)
Burgundy Wine Collection, 220 NIS.
A. Et P. De Villaine, Bouzeron, 2007
Oh, I'm so glad to report that this showing dispels my doubts whether to invest in fridge space to cellar this wine. Turns out, there's no need. It's just so very, very nice right now - as nice as a wine can be without crossing the line between good and excellent. The aromatics display mellow, tropical fruit laden with chalk and herbal notes that remind me of vegetable soup. As usual, there's also a touch of toasted bread. The palate is lively and inviting, light and tasty, with decent complexity. And the bottle was finished all by my lonesome in less than an hour and a half, so I'm either a lush or this is some kind of proof positive. (Nov. 26, 2010)
Burgundy Wine Collection, about 90 NIS.
Domaine des Baumard, Coteaux Du Layon, Carte d'Or, 2005
Four bottles in, I have yet to change my mind that this lovely little creature will gain anything from cellar time, but WTF, let's just enjoy it now. The nose is complex and heart-warming, showing baked apples with a growing dose of tropical fruit, clay and flint. It's very intense and alluring and while I can see it transforming into something else, I can't see it getting any better. The palate is delicious and layered yet awkward and lacks the zip of a really great sticky; and, while there is more acidity then I remembered or expected, it still doesn't seem like enough for a very long future. But thanks for the fun and memories.
(Nov. 30, 2010)
Giaconda, 117 NIS.