Sunday, September 26, 2010

Sushi and Alsace at Onami (Sept. 18, 2010)

Onami is an expensive joint, compared to my fave haunt Sakura, but the sushi there is really extravagantly delicious.

Zind-Humbrecht, Riesling, Gueberschwihr, 2004

For the first twenty minutes, this is the best value Alsatian in my inventory, with its mineral-laden nose that is the essence of all I could hope for in Alsace (given that I never approach the area with as much hope and expectations as I do Germany) while the palate deftly balances sweetness of fruit with a ragged, mineral cut. Then, it seems to waver until it is somewhat overwhelmed by the bitter finish that turns me off its brethren in the first place. Still, an excellent wine for what it is that will keep for half a decade at least, even though I suspect it will not improve. Memo to self: make room in budget and fridge for current releases.

WineRoute, about 150 NIS.

Albert Mann, Steingrubler Grand Cru, Gewurztraminer, 2005

I've developed a love-hate relationship with this extroverted variety. I love the nose and need to sniff it deeply every few months, while the palate is always a couple of steps too extracted and blowsy, with the acidity always on the low side, for me - but I keep coming back and a specimen like this is why. It's a slut but I'm deeply appreciative of the breed. So sue me. And it actually went better with the flashy makeup of Onami's sushi than did the Gueberschwihr, forming a menage-a-trois between its sweetness, high-fueled extact and the sushi dishes' spicy complexity.

Giaconda, 220 NIS.

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