I didn't realize I'd been looking for the right Sauvignon Blanc - not consciously, anyway - and while this, the Henri Bourgeois, Sancerre, La Bourgeoise, 2007, isn't the perfect sample, it's still the best Sauvignon Blanc I've tasted in the last couple of years. The nose is decent-plus, with pungent minerals and a lime-and-apple shake that is reminiscent of Chablis - but it's the palate that's the real killer: no great complexity but a sharp focus that lends it great length; and a salinity that, again, nods and winks at Chablis, all the while riding a structure whose angular shape is all Sauvignon.
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