The nose is classical and delightful, with a reductive stink (which I love) at first, then notes of citrus fruit and minerals. The palate has a tense, mineral structure that is overwhelmed by oak. Air does it some good , although not enough to make it very captivating, and I think a Premier Cru from 2002 should have more fruit to counterpoint the oak.
Not imported to Israel, price unknown.
Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay Premier Cru, Champans, 1996
Damaged. The fruit was meager to begin with, and while air seemed to uplift its spirits after an hour or so, it eventually went with a whimper. The previous bottle was good if not up to my expectations.
Campillo, Rioja, Reserva Especial, 1996
The nose feels extracted and modern before it calms down. The palate is balanced enough , although there is something too sweet about, certainly compared to the next wine. There are enough mineral accents on the nose and palate to make it an enjoyable wine, even though it never gains that leathery-earthy Rioja feel.
Ishmael Arroyo, Vol Soltillo, Ribera Del Duero, Reserva, 2001
This is, for me, an exciting wine, as I really love its mouthwatering cardamon and sea salt aromas and its almost grainy mouthfeel. It's rough and untamed but has enough complexity and dimensions (length, breadth and depth) to walk all over the Campillo.
Giaconda, 220 NIS.