Friday, May 21, 2010

Porterhouse (May 19, 2010)

I have been neglecting Porterhouse for a very long time. I just checked my notes and I haven't visited the place since last August, which is a shame, as it's my go-to place for meat.

I have also been neglecting my wine friends, for various reasons, none of which have anything to do with any lack of love. Work, family obligations and a somewhat constricted cash flow - all simply got in the way.

Time to dive right back in the pool of wine.

Jos. Christoffel, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Urziger Wurzgarten, Riesling Auslese Trocken, 1997

I would never have imagined, even in my wildest dreams, that Christoffel makes a trocken, let alone an Auslese Trocken. This takes getting used to, that's for sure. The nose is wonderful, with typical hints of petrol and cold slate and a not quite so typical fingerprint of guayavas. The palate is not quite my style: very bone dry, with only a trace of sweetness on the finish. On the plus side, there's a nice interplay of acidity and minerals that needs time to emerge.

Price unknown.

Rene Rostaing, Cote Rotie, Cote Blonde, 1996

DOA. Just like the La Landonne from the same vintage a couple of months ago. Someone up there really doesn't like 1996. Or me.

Purchased from McArthur for about 80 USD.

Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Leognan, 1996

The Rostaing's back up wine. This is simply lovely, a text-book example of elegant Bordeaux that unwinds slowly and confidently with air. The nose caresses with cherries and ash while the palate offers a supple structure and savory tannins.

Purchased from McArthur for about 50 USD.

Banfi, Summus, 1999

This is a dependable work-horse, I suppose. I have fine memories of the 1997 from my nubile days but this seems a touch finer, if there is any point at all to comparing impressions formed by such widely different incarnations of the same wine lover. Anyway, the nose has a certain herbal tinge that made me consider South Rhone at first, while the palate balances sweet tannins with a good dose of acidity. Gets the job done.

Price unknown.

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