Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Blind Burgundy Tasting (Dec. 14, 2009)

Hosted by Tomer Gal and Burgundy Wine Collection, this was a break from the usual thematic unity of these tastings by presenting wines from multiple regions and vintages.

Francois Jobard, Meursault Premier Cru, Poruzots, 2003

This bottle was problematic, to be charitable, with an oxidized, nutty nose somewhat akin to Champagne and a palate to match. I would actually find a weird fascination with this, were this a twenty year old wine. But this is a seven year old Premier Cru and even in a hot vintage, I'd expect more from a producer of Jobard's caliber. My guess is, it's the bottle, not the wine. About 350 NIS, as I recall.

Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Clos, 2007

And this is just what I expect from, and love in, Bourgogne: citrus fruit and ocean air on the nose, a superficially lean palate that packs a lot of flavors unto its austere framework, gorgeous acidity and a gentle, mineral finish that lets the fruit speak. Lovely. 230 NIS.

Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, 2006

Assuming Bonneau du Martray's reputation is warranted (and this is my first encounter with this famous producer so I don't have enough experience to make a judgement call here), then this wine is in an awkward stage. I find the nose to have the Corton-Charlemagne fingerprint, yet the palate is hot and disjointed, powerful yet too alcoholic. 590 NIS.

Meo-Camuzet, Fixin Premier Cru, Clos de Chapitre, 2006

The nose is dense, almost liquor-ish at first, needing time to show its Bourgogne character and smoky personality. The palate is rustic, without any obvious power or complexity. A pleasurable wine, I think it shows the Meo-Camuzet style but there's nothing very special about it. 210 NIS.

Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, 2006

To be quite honest, this is more than I'd be willing to spend on Premier Cru and it's not even a single vineyard but rather a blend of four sites. It's obviously a better wine than the previous, possessing richer aromatics without loss of elegance, longer, silkier and more focused on the palate. As many in the tasting rightly commented, this doesn't have a lot of Gevrey character. But it's very good, if expensive at 580 NIS.


Meo-Camuzet, Nuis-St.-Georges Premier Cru, Aux Murgers, 2006

A step up. First of all, this has an aromatic profile that is easier to pigeon-hole, a with cured meat musk that is right upfront without being too obvious. The palate is great, elegant yet powerful, with silky tannins and a mineral finish. I don't buy a lot of wines at 500 NIS, but Meo-Camuzet always manages to tempt me.

Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Les Suchots, 2006

I love the edgy, smoky nose, with an intensity that easily avoids becoming a block-buster. The palate is closed, but already enjoyable, as finely-wrought with minerals as the nose. There is a certain wildness about it that is surprisingly elegant as well. At 710 NIS, this is not a wine I'd ever buy, but it sure was fun to relish the smoky nose and the long, complex finish that made it a memorable experience.

Etienne de Montille, Pommard Premier Cru, Pezerolles, 2005

This probably has the most complex nose of all the lineup, with a lovely salinity that has a mouthwatering effect even before the first sip is broached. The palate is not quite as good, with some small holes in the middle that need some time and air to fill, but it is a captivating wine despite its adolescent quirks. Will improve for sure. 450 NIS.

Jean Grivot, Nuis-St.-Georges Premier Cru, Les Roncierres, 2002

I want to like this wine more, as I have enjoyed Grivot in the past (and what's more, I actually have a bottle of this I bought some five years ago). It's very animalistic, which is always a welcome thing in my book, but it starts off somewhat dilute and round and even though it greatly improves in glass, developing a mineral cut that belies the initial impression, it still left me concerned. About 500 NIS at current prices, my bottle was purchased on sale for about 50 USD.

Comte Georges de Vogue, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, 2003

As you would expect from a Grand Cru, this is very young and primal, on both nose and palate, and even though it does develop some aromatic nuances, a small glassful is not enough to base an extensive tasting note on. Which is a shame, as, at 1000 NIS a bottle for the Bonnes Mares (and even more for the Musigny), I will likely not have many chances to taste de Vogue again.

No comments: