Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay Premier Cru, Champans, 1996 (Oct. 17, 2009)

I opened this wine with a relative newcomer to wine, as way of introduction to Burgundy. But we had a warm-up wine first:

Perrin et Fils, Vacqueyras, Les Christins, 2007

Very primary upon opening. Nice aromatics, the fruit veering towards wild berries and complemented by broad hints of Provencal herbs. Although ripe and a little jammy, the nose remains harmonic and has a nuance of crushed fruit that I'm very fond of. The palate, however is very backward, tannic and grainy and when I opened it a couple of hours before our guests arrived, I was frankly worried it would not open in time. Glad to report that it opened nicely, even though it was too round and simple for my tastes. Hopefully, in two-three years the palate will hold up better against the nose.

Sold at WineRoute for about 90 NIS.

And on to the to the main event:

Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay Premier Cru, Champans, 1996

Whatever I love about the unique aromatics of Burgundy can be found in this wine: red cherries, forest floor with rotting leaves, game meat, pungent spiciness. The palate is tasty but on the lean side and angular and is disappointing for showing less power than I'd expect from a 96, even if I do enjoy the way its personality carries through in a whisper and not a bang. The fruit is good but in recession compared to the acidity so some people might object to it. A very good wine but the bottom line is that despite my affinity for the style, I would require more from this wine in order to place it in the top tier of Premier Crus.

Purchased in London for about 40 pounds.

For dessert, we had, once again, Krebs-Grode, Rheinhessen, Eimsheimer Sonnenhang, Riesling, Eiswein, 2002. As usual, the peaches on the nose are echoed on the palate, which is a bit bottom heavy but is nonetheless powered by a juicy acidity that never rests and carries it to the point where none of its drawbacks are very obvious.


Sounds good. I'll visit the place one day to taste the dessert and of course the wine.