Koehler-Ruprecht, Pfalz, Kalstadter Saumagen, Riesling Auslese, Trocken, 2005
A pungent nose that obscures the fruit but is terrrific anyway for its chalk cum vegetable soup nuances. The palate is not just young and tight, it's so disjointed it's almost paraplegic. There is obvious acidity present but it floats in a universe parallel to the bitter quinine finish and the wine is so closed I couldn't spot enough body in it for an Auslese. Still, I do like this wine for its somberly rugged personality so while I'm not opening any of my bottles in the next five years, I remain hopeful about its future.
Giaconda, about 160 NIS.
Keller, Rheinhessen, Von der Fels, Riesling QBA, Trocken, 2005
Here is another lovely nose with an almost Burgundian overlay of flint and dry grass over citrus fruit, while a kinky note of burnt rubber points the compass elsewhere. Unlike the Samaugen, the Von der Fels opens to show a very flavorsome profile and lovely acidity, yet never quite advances beyond a somewhat churlish adolescence. Very good and will improve.
Giaconda again, about 200 NIS (this is declassified juice from various Keller Grand Crus).
Marc Tempe, Alsace, Burgreben, Riesling, 2001
Honeyed apples on the nose with something akin to light botrytis. The palate starts off dry and finishes on a sweet note that is laced with minerals. We all liked this wine in the past and, thankfully, little has changed. I think this wine is well entrenched in a peak plateau that will last some three-five years, thus no rush to drink but no reason to wait.
Giaconda make their third and last appearance of the evening. About 160 NIS.