Two Not-Quite-So-Serious Bourgognes

Both of the following red Burgundies are imported by Tomer Gal and sell for 110 NIS (although La Fortune is sold out) and both are drinking well now and should hold for about four years.

Marcel Lapierre, Morgon, 2007

This young Beaujolais Cru displays wild strawberry aromas, pure and unfettered, with light hints of sour candy drops, which come across on the palate as juicy acidity that doesn't overwhelm the rather light body. In time, it shows a dash of spices that are reminiscent of Pinot Noir; in fact, I'm not sure I'd find it easy to distinguish between it and a young Bourgogne. There are also faint traces cocoa and a crisp, mineral finish to round out this fun wine. And, like any good Bourgogne, it picks up weight and definition in the glass, the finish growing more and more saline. (July 12, 2009)

A. Et P. De Villaine, Cote Chalonnaise Rouge, La Fortune, 2007

This is every bit as youthful as the Lapierre Morgon yet does not yield to any temptations to sow its wild oats. The nose is taut and elegant, offering raspberry and cherry aromas with earthy and spicy nuances and is intense enough to offer a liquorish overtone. The palate is angular and light, but picks up weight and softens with air, and winds up with a savoury, mineral finish. The flavors dance lightly across the palate so it will suffer in a tasting alongside bigger wines from up north, but it's incredible value for a weekday wine as it offers the usual Villaine class. (July 16, 2009)