2GrandCru Birthday Celebrations at Messa (July 11, 2009)

"Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana."

Groucho Marx

This was my first time at Messa and it was an interesting experience. The food is well made and creative, as well as relatively easy to pair with our wines (most dishes come in two sizes, so I ordered two first courses and a main dish) but cheap it's not. The picture above was lifted from their site.

Jos. Christoffel Jr, Mosel-Ruser-Saar, Wehlener Sonnenhur, Auslese, 1988

This Auslese came with no label so I'm not sure how many stars it was branded with, but it sure drinks like three stars, at the very least. The nose very delicately lacquers the fruit with elegant strokes of petrol and an earthy minerality, while the palate perfoms a few tricks of its own with savoury, green apple acidity. One of the best Christoffels I've ever had and, sadly, the only one not available locally.

Price unknown.

Olivier Leflaive, Chassagne-Montrachet, 2004

Obviously young, obviously oaky, but here the oak is well balanced by citrusy fruit. I like the style, especially the saline crunch on the finish, and it will be a good wine for a village in about three years.

Imported by WineRoute, the price was about 200 NIS a couple of years ago, if I'm not mistaken.

Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Les Cherbaudes, 1999

The nose veers more towards the black fruit end of the spectrum than I'd have expected, but there are enough tell-tale Bourgogne signs (wet earth, a hint of barnyard) to keep me very happy indeed. Plus, there's a light note of hyper-ripeness that adds interest rather than annoying. Very lively and balanced, but, despite the excellent vintage and origin (Premier Cru squeezed in between Chapelle and Mazis-Chambertin), I don't think it has an enormously long future ahead of it .

Not imported to Israel, price unknown.

Chateau Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Leognan, 1995

This is an interesting wine. Both nose and palate did not seem particularly claret-like, especially the palate, which was very minerally - which is a Pessac-Leognan trait - and angular. I thought it was a Barolo, I admit. A solid 90-pointer and it's always a pleasure to drink a mature Bordeaux.

Not imported to Israel.

Altesino, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, 1997

Reeks of class. And plenty of leather and cassis over juicy berries. Young, muscular and tannic, I thought it was perfect as it was but others thought it was too young. Usually I prefer complexity and nuances, but this powerful style was in no way over the top, I do not see it mellowing and I think it wears that style very well - so why wait?

Imported by WineRoute, purchased six years ago for about 450 NIS.