Sunday, June 21, 2009

F.X. Pichler 2007 Tasting At Giaconda (June. 13, 2009)

Warning: Mine Field Ahead!!!

Coming into this tasting, I thought "only four wines, this should be easy to write up". Except, these wines were too young for me to easily pass judgment upon, in fact a couple were so bitter that they were almost tannic. If I go by the book on Pichler, then these are excellent wines tasted too early, but I can't really quote other people's book, just my own. And I was stymied. Whatever, it was an enjoyable (for social and intellectual reasons, if not for purely hedonistic reasons) tasting, with the usual Giaconda finger-foods, tasty as always.

Federspiel Loibner Klostersatz, Gruner Veltliner

This is the most ready of the lot, the nose showing a vaguely Chablis-like personality, with lemon and flint as well as a hint of herbs and toast. The palate is crisp with appealing acidity that almost balances a certain bitterness. Structure-wise, a well made wine well worth the price, but I'd wait a further six months and hope the bitterness mellows.

91 NIS. Good value.

Urgestein Terrassen, Gruner Veltliner Smaragd

The nose is tight at first, then flares with an even greater wealth of flint than the previous wine. The palate is obviously more compex and concentrated, with greater finesse on the finish, but here the bitterness is blatant enough to put me off. In this case, I admit it's not easy for me to decide whether the bitterness will mellow in time or whether this is just the style of the wine.

126 NIS. Potentially good value, depending on the evolution of said bitterness.

Loibner Berg, Gruner Veltliner Smaragd

This is actually singing quite nicely now. The nose continues in the same vein as the previous wines - although the flint notes are drawn with greater care and a finer brush - with some floral and honied notes. The nose shows some alcohol but this is not as obvious on the palate, which is tasty and balanced. None of the Gruner Veltliners seemed overly elegant, but the Loibner Berg seems very close to it.

167 NIS. Nice price.

Loibner Berg, Riesling Smaragd

A cool, elegant nose, that is fruiter and less minerally than the GV's. The feeling of coolness continues on the palate, which is concentrated yet balanced enough to feel light despite boasting 13.5% ABV. The flavor profile leans more towards grapefruit, with a light salinity on the finish. I can't see any great complexity right now but it is very tasty.

234 NIS. There's enough optimism is me and enough interest in what I tasted to think it is also worth a try.

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