Sunday, October 19, 2008

Walking Down Memory Lane - Jean Durup Historical Notes

This is a collection of notes pre-dating the 2GrandCru blog that I never got around to uploading. As far as I can tell, I've changed so much over the past couple of years that some of these notes might no longer reflect my personal taste or even my writing style but it sure was fun reading them over. I've marked a question mark wines I doubt I could stand to drink these days.

Jean Durup, Chablis Premier Cru, Fourchaumes, 2001

A golden-yellow colored, fairly complex, pure and austere wine that starts out very taut and closed and opens very nicely over 1-2 hours. Starts off very shut with some pears and hints of honey then reveals some lemon and smoke then the lemon becomes candy-ish, like lemon drops. Then it goes through a nutty-oily phase and then that too is replaced by a grapefruit-like sourness. Eventually, it winds up encompassing all these aromas and flavors, showing a minerally facet that keeps growing more prominent. Despite putting up a terrific show, it feels like it’s still keeping some secrets in reserve for, say, 2 years time. (Aug. 21, 2005)

Jean Durup, Chablis Premier Cru, Fourchaumes, 2002

A golden yellow wine that evolved for hours in glass, while keeping within a well-delineated frame. I would say that while the 2001 seemed in control all the time, the 2002 seems to be both shyer and more unpredictable. The nose starts out as vaguely citrus-like and buttery, then the fruits become easier to pick out and more fragnant in glass and build up a delicate interplay of apple and various citrus fruits and hints of flowers; then shifts towards pears and apples with a vague whiff of metal. The palate is very packed with flavors, though all are kept in rein with a harp acidity. Riper but less impressive than the 2001 right now but in what should be as good if not a better vintage, I expect to see it develop further. (Sep. 24, 2005)

Jean Durup, Chablis Premier Cru, Vau De Vey, 2002

Pale gold color. The nose starts off with distinct notes of sea air, guayavas and oranges, then grows richer and more buttery and the aromas melt into each other. The palate displays similar sensations and is lean, steely, very fresh and balanced, with a minerally-salty finish. Seems readier than the Fourchaumes and more minerally if less nervy. Drink until 2008-9. (Feb. 27, 2006)

Tomer Gal usually imports Durup's Vau De Vey for his Burgundy Wine Collection but from the 2001/2 vintages, he brought the Fourchaumes. I bought my bottle of the Vau De Vey in Table and Vine in Northamption, MA (the other bottles I bought from Tomer). Tomer was only arguably right, for me it's a matter of apples and oranges. At any rate, whatever Durup Premier Cru he brings, it is usually sold for about 125 NIS which is comparable to prices abroad and a bargain.

No comments: