Almost nothing I drank in January outside of the Saturday night gigs was up to snuff. Though in the case of the Chablis and the German Rieslings, it seems more a case of socially challenged children refusing to come out and play.
Chateau du Puligny-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, 2002
There is initially an overwhelming whiff of glue and acetone on the nose, but it fades after a while, revealing minerals and citrus fruits. Ah, if only things were ever that simple. The palate is very attentuated, asutere a step beyond the wrong side of the fence, and, with the acidity on the low side, there doesn't seem to be enough fruit to balance the oak. The 2004 was much better even taking into account that I bought the 2002 off the shelf a year and a half after its arrival in Israel. (Jan. 12, 2008)
Imported by Tomer Gal for about 220 NIS in 2005. I find the Ramonet and Jobard village wines more to my taste.
Then, also imported by Tomer Gal. Still available at Hinawi for 130 NIS.
Durup, Chablis Premier Cru, Vau De Vey, 2005
Pears, apples, lemon and a tell tale (for the vineyard) note of sea air. The palate is the most backwards I've ever tasted from any of Durup's premier crus, bitter, a bit metallic and hollow. Which takes the Vau De Very some three hours to get over and it's still not as vibrant as it was a year ago. I think I'll let the rest of my bottles age for two years more and see what happens. (Jan. 22, 2008)
W. Gisselbrecht, Alsace, Pinot Blanc, 2005
A nice one, but... Ripe, temperate tropical aromas, with, initially, somewhat off-putting metallic/alcoholic whiffs that need time to, well, whiff away. Notes of tropical fruits on the palate and a crisp, minerally finish. Lightly spicy. Grows rounder and more subtle on the palate, more veggie and minerally on the nose, but a bit under my radar range. (Jan. 24, 2008)
Imported by Giaconda for 63 NIS.
Also from Giaconda, for 110 NIS:
Langwerth Von Simmern, Rheingau, Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen, Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2006
The Gisselbrecht Pinot Blanc left me yearning for R-i-e-s-l-i-n-g and, grounded due to family obligations on Saturday night, I brought this one from the fridge and found it to straddle the nether regions of challengling and unsatisfying. Quite young, laden with yeasts on the nose, and also red apples and minerals on the nose. On the palate, green apples dominate, with apricots lurking in the background. In time, a green, tart streak seems to oversome the wine, as it shuts down in glass. Seems to prove my contention that dry German Rieslings need more time to enter their drinking window, as this is very withdrawn right now, and not very complex. Match it with food as you would a Chablis, as it has a similar crispiness, which I suspect will still be there after it emerges from its childhood in two years. (Jan. 26, 2008).