Age, Youth and Beauty - Two German Rieslings (Nov. 3, 2007)

I come to prostelyze German Rieslings again.

Gunderloch, Rheinessen, Rothenberg Nackenheim, Spatlese, 2005

A very round wine, with great length and a solid grip, exhibiting yet again the sexiness of 2005 in Germany. Off dry, with ripe, green apple acidity and minerals to balance. Oddly enough, the nose already hints at mature petrol notes that back up a melange of comely fruit and honey. The sexiness is what I love about 2005, it's not an opulent sexiness, more of an assured caresse on the palate. A lovely gem.

Not imported to Israel, price unknown.

Jos. Christoffel Jr., Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Erdener Trepchen, Auslese **, 1992

Obviously mature, with lots of petrol as well as mildew. The palate feels more mature, the flavor profile not as obviously fruity though it has retained a great deal of fruit. More austere and more drying on a comparitively shorter finish, it too boasts fine acidity and minerals, though they're made of a more delicate cloth. This is what I admire in mature Rieslings, the way the fruit takes on a different facet while retaining its vigor as the petrol doesn't simply add shades, it reveals the depths that were there to begin with. Very fine, though not great.

Imported by Giaconda, sold for 207 NIS.

The Gunderloch would win by a point, but it's more a matter of taste and mood.