Burgundy Tasting At WineRoute Tel Aviv (Jun. 26, 2007)

This was a stand up tasting that sprawled all over the ground floor and the basement of the WineRoute Tel Aviv store and as these are not conductive to in-depth tasting notes, I'll be brief.

Olivier Leflaive, Chablis, Premier Cru "Vaillons", 2004 looked like a good bargain on paper. The list price is 150 NIS but it was cheaper when WineRoute sold it as a sort of "future" while their grand shipment made its way to Israel. I looked forward to finally tasting it and wasn't disappointed and I'd make an educated guess I wasn't the only one. Classic Chablis: crisp, and minerally.

Domaine Vincent Girardin, Chassagne Montrachet, Premier Cru Le Morgeot, 2004 was another very good white from this very good white vintage. A good dose of oak did not obscure the flint on the nose though it was more blatant on the palate. The Maison Louis Jadot, Chassagne Montrachet, 2000 might have seen better days, although I can't vouch for that. WineRoute lists them both for 239 NIS, which might be reasonable if you're willing to pay the same price for a village wine as for a Premier Cru only because someone aged it to death for you.

As for the reds, they showed that 2004 was a mixed bag for Burgundy reds. Domaine Serafin was represented by two wines, Gevery Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, 2004 and Morey St. Denis, Premier Cru, 2004, almost as though WineRoute felt compelled to show off their new acquisition (a US fave as I understand from my dilligent research). Both started fairly well in the glass, then stalled. I had the 2000 Vieilles Vignes about a year ago and it was quite nice, although obviously modern, so maybe they need more time but with wines priced at over 330 NIS, I look for a better and clearer first impression. The Domaine Dujac, Morey St. Denis, 2004 and Domaine Robert Arnoux, Vosne Romanee, 2004 both were village wines with fantastic noses, especially the Arnoux, but lacked stuffing and grip on the palate. I might gamble on the Arnoux as it's hard to imagine that a wine with such a great nose won't turn out well in time.

Other vintages were also represented. The Domaine JL Trapet, Gevery Chambertin, 1993 (349 NIS) was nicely mature although there was something quirky about it, almost as if it surprised itself for surviving 14 years. The Domaine Joseph Roty, Gevery Chambertin, Cuvee Champs Cheny Rouge, 2003 (279 NIS) was ripe and bloated beyond the boundaries of good taste and Pinot-hood. Domaine Vincent Girardin, Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, 2001 was a decently priced Grand Cru at 499 NIS but somehow it failed to excite me.

A wine that did excite me was the Domaine A. F. Gros, Pommard Premier Cru, Pommard, Les Pezzeroles, 2002 (289 NIS) which was ripe on the nose and tannic on the palate yet promised elegance. A wonderful nose.

Finally, the star of the night, despite my reservations about 2004 reds, was the Domaine Jacques Frederic Mugnier, Nuits St. George, Premier Cru, Clos De La Marechale, 2004 (299 NIS). A classic name in Chambolle from what I've read, Mugnier reclaimed the family monopole at Clos De La Marechale in time for the 2004 harvest. It started off very fruity then calmed down to put on its jewlery and evening gown. A highly enjoyable wine that made my day. That says it all, doesn't it?


Anonymous said…
We missed you at the AMAZING tasting last night.
There wasn't a sinlge wine there that wasn't excellent.