Wednesday, May 23, 2007

A Couple From Chablis

The Chablis tasting in April really whetted my appetite.

Jean Durup, Chablis Premier Cru, Fourchaumes, 2002

Citrus and pears with hints of minerals at first. Somewhat earthy and limpid at first for this slow opener until the nose starts complexifying, outputting more minerals and herbs and the palate becomes fuller, more saline, longer. It’s hard to return to Durup after tasting Dauvissat and Ravenau but this is still an appetizing wine, though I was surprised it had changed relatively little in two years. (May 6, 2007)

I'm not experienced enough to hazard a drinking window, usually, but I will say this: Having tasted quite a few Durup Premier Crus from 2002, 2004 and 2005 as well as the Vau De Vey 1995, I think that if you like their youthful incarnation, there's not a lot to be gained from aging them once they're ready (two-four years post vintage). However, once they cross the line into respectful middle age, they're another wine altogether, judging by the Vau De Vey 1995. So I'd suggest aging them only if you enjoy that particular incarnation. Which you'd never be able to extrapolate from the youthful version, so you really have to try a ten year old first and decide if you want to hazard longer cellaring.

Dauvissat, Chablis, 2000

Subtle aromatics, very similar to the bottle from the Chablis tasting. Sea water, nut oil, lemon in the background. Very subtle and austere on the palate with a long finish. It’s lightly oxidized yet interesting and I like it. But it doesn’t hold up as well as the other bottle, maybe at this age, it's not meant to be drunk alone but rather with friends and appropiate food. (May 10, 2007)


Both have long been sold out, but more recent vintages of Durup (as well as a re-released Vau De Vey, 1995) can be found at Hinawi in Hertzeliya.

No comments: