Wine Cellar Homesick Blues


Weingut Günther Steinmetz, Mosel, Kestener Herrenberg, Riesling Kabinett, 2020

Apricots and wintergreen. And the poised lightness of snowflakes just about to melt. (Aug. 21, 2022)

Domaine Heresztyn/Heresztyn-Mazzini, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes, 2017

From what I’ve read, 2017 in burgundy is an early drinker’s paradise, due to a combination of summer rain and a large crop, which is why I’ve been opening my few lower end wines at a young age, whenever I’m overwhelmed by cravings for Bourgogne. In hindsight, I should have waited with my sole bottle, although it’s certainly approachable, at the very least. I think age would have brought out more nuances and hopefully would have highlighted the Gevrey character. As things stand now, it’s too subtle a wine, of fair complexity, with a personality I find more Denis.-St.-Morey, say, than Gevrey. It’s more rocky/dusty ( with a hint of mushrooms), as opposed to Gevrey’s toss up between flowers and leather. I can’t say if that’s the wine or its youth, I know virtually nothing  about the producer, and couldn’t find any decent information about the makeup and location of the vineyards.

Lahat, Syrah, 2020

Lahat’s flagship red wine embodies Itay’s ideals of drinkability, with soft tannins and harmonious acidity framing red fruit. Black pepper and violets highlight the typicality of Syrah. The North Rhone is definitely the reference here, maybe Crozes or the VDP appellations across the river.


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