A fun, spontaneous evening at Claro. The wines are presented in order of quality and interest. The one wine I really urge you to buy is the first one.
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Clos de La Bretonnière, 2019
The vineyard is in Vouvray but must be labeled as a Vin de France because the winery is in Montelouis-sur-Loire. Yet another malodorous French law that reminds us that, yes, the French perfected the art of fine wine, but they also invented Dada. This is a gorgeous, intriguing wine, that needed an hour to show minerals and who knows what other metamorphoses were in store. It impresses as ripe, almost sweet, but it's not, actually, it's very well formed with a touch of raciness. It also hints of exotic fruit and pears, but not exactly the same pears as, say Meursault, I'd say they're more like the baked pears of Champagne. It's nutty as well, but more like nut oil, rather than actual nuts. In short, a lot was going on and great fun was had by all. This costs about 200 NIS at the importer site but worth every shekel.
I think this is a wine that really displays how versatile and unique Chenin Blanc is in the Loire. It can be melons with salt in the lesser, dry Loire appellations. It can be all manners of sweetness, in Quarts de Chaume, Bonnezeaux, Coteaux du Layon, Vouvray and others. This is wine reminds me of the ashy minerals of Savennières, but Savennières is intense and, I daresay, loud. If Savennières is a symphony, this is a jazz improvisation. Both versions are complex and multifaceted.
Here's a thought to anyone who's drunk this already. If you drank this blind and didn't guess Chenin Blanc, is there any other grape you might consider? I can't. The classical grapes, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, are easily ruled out. The Rhone grapes usually don't have the depth. Gruner Veltiner actually shares some of the flavors and has the depth, but the palate is formed differently. If you blend Gruner with some Portuguese grapes, you might approximate this wine. Just goes to show what a unique wine this is.
Ramonet, Bourgogne, 2019
A delectable, totally Chassagne nose, blasting with flint and dried grass. The palate is a step above the generic Bourgogne AOC, but not quite Chassagne village level - tasty, racy, salty. This has "but a six pack" written all over everything about it except for its price (190 NIS, but it's sold out at Tomer Gal, anyway).
Ferraton, Cornas, Les Grands Muriers, 2015
A wine that fulfills two prime directives. One, it is tasty and decently structured (round and fat, but not flabby), so it goes well with food. Two, it is true to its origin, showing olives, bacon fat and black pepper. It fails to provide interest, depth or inspiration. The third directive lurks within those absentees.
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