Sphera Ten Year Anniversary

Ten years. Depending on your outlook, that's either a long time or barely a wink of an eye. According to Sphera winemaker Doron Rav-Hon, the first decade of the family's boutique winery was barely enough time to find his comfort zone. Actually, he claims he feels he never has a comfort zone. I think that's good news. Winemakers should never find a comfort zone. Nature won't give them one and they keep an edge by never settling into one.

To make sure he doesn't find a comfort zone, four years ago, Doron, along with his wife and de facto CEO, Sima, embarked on yet another venture. The power couple who bucked the odds by founding Israel's first winery dedicated to white wines (oh yeah, the Chosen People have chosen red wine, despite a country that begs for A/C at least half the year) have given us a sparkling wine. They're not the winery first to produce a sparkling wine, not even the first boutique, but it is a wine that Sphera's customers have been looking forward to for quite a while.

I'll give Doron the first compliment of quite a few. Speaking for myself, the reason I was looking forward to the new Blanc de Blancs wasn't because Doron specializes in white wines. It was because he makes nuanced white wines that are very precise, without being calculated.

The Ten Year Anniversary event included quite a few wines - and, of course, the Blanc de Blancs. I'll go over the ones I could taste cleanly.

Riesling, 2016

I don't know whether my love of Rieslings makes me a harsh critic of local versions, or whether I hang on to any redeeming feature I can find. I can say that when I tasted the 2016 at three years of age, I was caught off-guard by how good it was. The acidity and taut structure were a revelation. According to Doron, 2016 has softer acidity compared to the 2017. It's still thriving, even though I'm not convinced it is still developing. The nose is especially appealing, a slight reduction highlighting minerals, as well as a touch of toasted bread. The texture is good, but the balance is slightly off on the bitter finish. 

Riesling, 2017

The aromatics are not as captivating here. The nose is fruitier, with less emphasis on minerals. The balance, acidity and texture are better. Personally, I'd drink both up, not because they're heading downhill, but because I don't have enough storage to hang on them (also, they're quite delicious). If I were to cellar one of them, though, it would be the 2017.

First Page, 2018 (magnum)

I can't seem to hang on to this wine. That's the curse of an evolving blend, you can't make an educated cellaring estimate. I love the nose, with toasty notes similar to the 2016 Riesling. The palate is spicy and moreish. 

White Signature, 2015

I think this was back when the flagship wine was heavy into Chardonnay? Anyway, this is a killer white, with a nose redolent with gunpowder and tangerines, a taut texture and a long, mineral rich finish. Doron may not feel he has a comfort zone, but wines like this are the product of a very confident hand.

White Signature, 2021

Nowadays, this is a pure Semillon. It gathers the strands of all the tasting notes above into a single, complex tapestry. You have minerals, gunpowder, toast and also flowers. The palate still hasn't found its equilibrium, but the nose just doesn't stop developing nuances and depth. A winner.

Blanc de Blancs, 2018

Zero dosage, ten months in old barrels for the still wine, two months fermentation, two years on the lees. I think it's still too young for an enlightened judgement. The fruit is obviously pedigree, but it's so youthful it actually tastes and smells grapey. The acidity and structure are promising, but its personality is very mute. Don't touch it in the next year or so, preferably two.