Weingut Hermann Ludes, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Thörnicher Ritsch, Riesling Auslese, Alte Reben, 2010
This is on the young side, but I felt I deserved a shot of hedonism and Rieslings are delicious at almost any and every age. Few regions can match the Mosel for wines that are this seductive and rich without losing their focus and edge. Usually, Mosel Rieslings feel like apples coated by slate, but this feels like God created a great, giant candy ball of green apples and lemons, made sure the sweetness was counterpointed by spices and acidity, and then exploded the whole kit and caboodle over the frozen, slate hills of the Mosel. And somehow, despite the intoxicating sweetness, the texture and definition are fabulous.
Weingut Hermann Ludes, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Thörnicher Ritsch, Riesling Spätlese, Alte Reben, 2010
And now for the Spätlese version, which Ludes say is their best wine ever. They’re very likely right. It's as rich as the Auslese, but with higher toned acidity, giving it even greater definition. I get Crème Brûlé, as well as hints of the mustard spiciness of botrytis, filtered through ice-cold lime pie.
Weingut Hermann Ludes, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Thörnicher Ritsch, Riesling Auslese, 2004
I don't know how much wisdom I can gleam comparing 2010 to 2004. Granted, it's the same vineyard, but vines are younger (I assume by the lack of the Alte Reben tag). Still, even here the acidity is terrific, doing an amazing job balancing the sweetness. The additional six years are hard to take note of, maybe the form is slightly more chiseled now. As with the other two, the flavors echo the aromas, enchanting in every sense: botrytis spices, great acidity, slate, apples edged aside by apricots.
Terre Nere, Etna Rosso, Santo Spirito, 2018
The sour black cherries, parched earth, the iron and hints of truffles take me to Piedmont. The tannins, however, are their very own breed. I can't speak for Etna in general, but I find the tannins in the Terre Nere reds to be suave with a tinge of iron, but not as rusty and dense as a Barolo. Lovely, fairly complex and deep, a well sculpted palate. Sweet, yet savory fruit.
Cavallotto, Barolo, Bricco Boschis, 2017
The nose is exactly why I'm full-throttle in love with Piedmont these days. For starters, there's always some beguiling version of that tantalizing perfume, in this specific instance: tea, parched earth and herbs. The palate evokes the same magic to a lesser degree, but only because this is, after all, a five year old Barolo from a hardcore, Old School producer. If this is what Cavallotto came out with in 2017, then, wow, sign me up for the full course!
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