Karina and Guillaume Lefèvre make a white blend you probably didn't think you'd have any use for - 40% Grenache Blanc, 20% Ugni Blanc, 20% Clairette, 20% Vermentino - co-fermented and raised in stainless steel tanks except for a small portion which is matured in neutral barrel. It's fresh and fairly neutral, which is the trendy medium for highlighting terroir. Except I have no idea what Provence whites are supposed to taste like. It smells and tastes more like wild flowers and herbs than fruit.
Fedellos do Couto, Ribeira Sacra, As Xaras, 2019
A Mencia once again, and an appealing introduction to this new Cheers import. It's fresh, soft, yet persistent, peppery and moreish.
Tzora, Shoresh Blanc, 2019
An acknowledged classic that I've drunk so many times that I've run out of things to say about it. There are so many good Sauvignon Blancs in Israel that unless I make a systematic investigation (something I did a few years ago), that it's not so easy to point out what sets each one apart from the pack. But I'll try. I think the Shoresh is the fleshiest. The fruit and minerals (chalk with a hint of flint), dry grass and nut oil feel very vivid. Ah! I think I have it: its edge on its peers is its vividness.
Philippe Alliet, Chinon, Vieilles Vignes, 2018
I loved the 2017 so much I rushed to buy and test the 2018 as soon as I spotted it on the shelf. It's weightier and more forward than the 2017, earthy with a hint of lead pencil. The 2017 was already fairly complete, but this feels in sore need of time.
Yeoshua Wines, Zikit Red, 2020
Israel is becoming the Bordeaux of ‘Mediterranean Grapes’. Just about every winery except for Tzora and Golan Heights is making a blend! Yeoshua Wines is Tulip/Maia winemaker David Bar-Ilan’s private label and this Syrah/Doriff/Carignan/Marsellan blend continues in the same vein as his work at Maia. Primary, fresh fruit decorated by pepper, earth, lead pencil.
Terre Nere, Etna Rosso, Feudo di Mezzo Il Quadro delle Rose, 2018
This is arguably the lowliest of Terre Nere's crus, which is a good enough reason to use it to gauge how the 2018's are progressing.
Terre Nere call Feudo di Mezzo the Clos de Vougeot of Etna, due to its size, but, because they’re aware of how the namesake’s reputation has been marred for centuries by its size, they hurry to say that their Il Quadri delle Rose plot is one of the best.
Ignoring the issue of vineyard rank and pedigree for now, the nose shows why the Nerello Mascalese grape is called the Nebbiolo of the south. Both share a similar earth, iron and truffles signature. The big difference is the tannins. The tannins Nerello Mascalese are usually plumper and sweeter, especially here, where they make for a very open and inviting palate. The directness and lack of challenge are probably why this is ranked by the winery as only a premier cru. On the other hand, it’s ready as it will ever be and, while it will never become more of a challenge, it does present more and more nuances as the evening unfolds. I could probably put away 2-3 more of these before I approach the other crus.
Weingut Günther Steinmetz, Mosel, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Riesling "GP", 2019
What would be a Grosses Gewaches, were Steinmetz a member of the VDP. All about a coiled structure that easily avoids boring, uncomfortable austerity. Green apples, with traces of slate and the sense that - pow - in the few years it will release a sneaky punch.
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