Schumann, Baden, Kaiserstuhl, Building Bridges, 2015
This is new producer for me, which I can say is true for 99.9% of the Baden producers. Which is very sad, since I've loved the very few I've tried. This is fairly ready, but needs some air to get rid of fair amounts of reduction to reveal spices and leaves on the nose. It also needs to time to expand its early short finish and reveal a tannic structure nurturing clear fruit within its soft belly. The acidity is lovely, unobtrusive but definitely doing its job. This would be torture as a joker in blind Burgundy tasting.
Fromm, Marlborough, Clayvin Vineyard , Pinot Noir, 2017
This, too, gets off to a reductive start. It then takes off on a path much different from the Schumann. This is undoubtedly a Pinot Noir, but it is no Bourgogne. It's not a ripe, candied, New World Pinot, either. While it doesn't show the musky world of forest floor greenery and fungi, it is very focused and saline, with a tight laser beam of minerals on the finish.
Cavallotto, Langhe Nebbiolo, 2019
Whoa, this may be a 'mere' Langhe Nebbiolo, but it is way too young. No surprise, given the producer. It's full of roses, ripe cherries and rusty tannins, in a heady mix that does not settle down.
Ycoden Daute Isora, Artífice Tinto, 2017
I loved this producer when Eldad first brought it to Israel, three years ago. Then, I kind of lost track, mainly because there were at least three producers being imported from the Canary Islands and some of the reds seemed too dirty for me. Not this one, though. The concoction of minerals, pepper, gunpowder, soft tannins and juicy fruit is too lovely and moreish, especially with plenty of air.
Karthäuserhof, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg, Riesling Auslese #34, 2006
This showed a dark brown color, much darker and browner than a sixteen year old Auslese ought to look, but what do you know, it is indeed oxidized, but somehow the balance of sugar and acidity is still spot on and keeps things lively. My enjoyment and notes (medium complex nose, spices, peach jam) are both more a token of survival than description of quality, but it is a feat of survival that deserves a salute.
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