Odds and Ends

Feldstein, Syrah, 2017

It went like this. The first night, it felt alcoholic and bitter, even after 5-6 hours. The second night: pepper and garrigue on top of fairly massive red-black fruit. Fascinating and wild, like Avi's Grenache that I love so much. My conclusion? A wine that needs five years.

Reinhold Haart, Mosel, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Riesling Kabinett, 2020

I’ve had a few bottles of Haart and what I adore about them is how they just ripe enough to put a few wrinkles in the usual Mosel paradigm of apples and slate: the minerality is a little warmer, the palate combines apricots and green apples with cookie dough. A fascinating Kabinett.

Bernard Levet, Côte-Rôtie, La Chavaroche, 2011

Black pepper and ground coffee on the nose. A good start marred a certain greenness and a medium-minus body. I had greater hopes.

Michelle Chiarlo, Barolo, Tortoniano, 2016

Tar, spices, not as long and deep on the palate as I’d expected (expectations set by the vintage, I don't have experience with Chiarlo to make a call), but the nose is decently complex with notes of truffles.

Eric Texier, Côtes du Rhone, Brézème, Vieille Serine, 2015

Black pepper and also something that’s a cross between roasted fat and balsamic vinegar.


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