Night Out With Tali Dalbaha

Tali Dalbaha is an honorary member of my group. Honorary because she's lives in Manhattan, where she owns and manages her own wine/alcohol marketing company, Wines du Monde. On the last day of the current visit to Tel Aviv, we gathered in Hudson for meat and wines. Some wines worked made a good showing, some didn’t.

Jacquesson et Fils, Cuvée 743, Extra Brut, n.v.
Jacquesson is unique in that they don’t try to maintain a consistent style in their non-vintage cuvées. In fact, each year’s bottling is labeled with a running number. The 743 is based on the 2015 vintage, which was a hot one. There’s no lack of acidity and the focus is good, but it’s a rich, broad style with ripe citrus fruit and an abundance of roasted pecans. I think, though, that a colder year brings out greater finesse and nuances.

00 Wines, Williamette Valley, VGR, Shea Vineyard, 2017
This is a winery that came up with a deceptively simple hype that is such pure genius, that it’s a wonder no one thought of it first: their whites are labelled VGW (Very Good White) and the red, VGR (Very Good Red). Their Shea is very good, indeed. They nailed the red fruit character of Pinot, with a dressing of forest leaves and spices. It’s very balanced and muscular in a way that Bourgognes are not. I’m not saying Bourgognes are never muscular, but they evoke a well built up forearm. Here we have the thighs of wide receiver. The acidity is excellent and the tannins are present, but not intrusive. If it has one fault, it’s that it’s a bit on the polished side. 

Segal, Dishon, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000
It may have been a mistake to decant it. This is the second bottle I’ve drunk in the last few months and it’s thriving, but the decanter took away it’s tannic crunch and nuances. Restrained, elegant power, good acidity, notes of iron on the nose.

Domaine Hubert Lamy, St. Aubin Premier Cru, Clos de la Chateniere, 2012
Pure citrus fruit (lime, lemon), a touch of river pebbles. I think it’s a wine that would give more if shared between less people, because it usually presents complexity and subtlety that requires more than one glass to appreciate. Plus, we probably should have let it breathe longer.

Rhys, San Mateo Country, Family Farm Vineyard, Pinot Noir, 2014
I appreciate that Rhys is "a name" but I've yet to taste a bottle that lived up to the hype. This is a ripe style of Pinot, coming off warmer than the 00. It's not overworked, overwrought or over extracted, but it is a little tiring. It's always a good idea to really cool wines when dining at Hudson, even in winter, as wines usually feel a little warmer there - but I don't think a few degrees would have helped here. Or with the next wine.

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Bolgheri, Ornellaia, 2008
Thank you, Robert Parker, for your legacy. Another big, alcoholic mess. I drank the 2006 a few years ago and it was 'just' over-hyped. This is unbearable, sorry.

Château Pichon-Longueville, Pauillac 2me Cru, 2008
2008 is a Bordeaux vintage that should never tire your palate, but this is one wine that suffered from a few unnecessary extra degrees of temperature. And also by the palate fuck that was Ornellaia. Despite that, I could get a glimpse or two of the beautiful balance of power and elegance of Pauillac.

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