R. Lopez de Heredia, Cubillo, Rioja Crianza, 2012
I guess there's a reason I don't buy a lot of Riojas. The cheap ones are boring and oaky, and the expensive need time. Even Crianzas. Actually, this is no ordinary Crianza. The Cubillo vineyard is dedicated to Crianzas, yes, but at Heredia, even the Crianzas undergo an aging scheme that would earn them a Gran Reserva designation. That's the 'price' Heredia pay for being the most Old School house in Rioja.
I basically don't think Tempranillo is a very interesting grape and it needs a long gestation in bottle. Maybe that's why this nine year old Crianza is still so backwards, showing sour cherries, a touch of earth and spicy oak. (Aug. 12, 2021)
Antoine Graillot and Raul Perez, Bierzo Tinto, Encinas, 2018
Raul Perez is the superstar winemaker who put his homeland Bierzo on the wine map. Antoine Graillot is the son of Alain, who played a similar role in Crozes-Hermitage, which had stood in the shadows of Hermitage for years. Each had a distinct contribution to the winemaking process. Antoine adapted the family practice of fermenting in cement tanks, while Perez advised on vineyards and grape selection and urged extended skin contact after the fermentation, as well as aging in a large foudre. The result? A wine in the same sensual, somewhat rustic skein as a Beaujolais Cru, which I find a lot of the new wave Spanish producers leaning towards (at least the ones imported to Israel), showing pungent earth, flowers, licorice, smoked meats. The meaty flavors slowly recede with air, which I find suits the wine, and they are replaced by spices and olives. (Aug. 13, 2021)
Alain Graillot, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, 2018
The 'original' Graillot estate - I must admit, I enjoyed this wine rather more when I drank it in winter. Now, it's challenging and wildly different from its previous showing. Mixes ripeness, subtly integrated acidity and an ashy, mineral veneer, like someone dumped Scottish whiskey in a bowl of apricot punch. Not for everyone, and on some nights, not even for me. 80% Marsanne, 20% Rousanne, from decently mature old vine (35 years plus). (aug. 16, 2021)
Nervi, Il Rosato, 2020
This is a historical winery in Gattinara, a lesser Piedmont DOCG, which is now owned by Giacomo Conterno. This is one of the best roses I've ever had, the nose growing ever more complex with air - starting out with dust and cherries, then adding red apples and hints of flowers - the finish savory and tangy. (Aug. 14, 2021)
Lewinsohn, Garage de Papa, Vendage Entière, 2018
An unstemmed blend of Petite Sirah and Syrah, this is, as usual, floral and fresh, a very drinkable young flagship wine. The flavors and aromas are very clear and striking and the saline finish is to die for. I always think that, blind, I'd peg it as an excellent Saint Joseph, for its lithe, peppery character. (Aug. 17, 2021)
As we were finishing the bottle, I thought, "mmmm... I should do a tasting of wines by Israeli Masters of Wine" and then this happened (courtesy of a generous neighbor):
Tzora Vineyards, Misty Hills, 2011
My friend left me about a glassful, which I was too tired to drink, so I kept it for lunch the next day. It was still well structured, lively and tasty the next day, showing the Tzora telltale black cherries, dust and pine needles. It has a warmer (sweeter) character than a Bordeaux, but not really a riper one. Excellent and even a conservative estimate would allow it five more years of prime drinking. (Aug. 18, 2021)
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