Castles and Hunters

Giacomo Fenocchio, Barolo, Castellero, 2016

A friend did me a good turn. A really good turn. So I invited him over for wine and dug into my stash of  Piedmont 16's. To be honest, though, while I love Fenocchio, Castellero is my least favorite of his four crus. And I have another bottle of the 2016. Goes to prove I'm calculated even when I'm being grateful. Anyway, as expected, it needed time, something like four hours post opening. The perfume was intense from the start, red cherries and herbs, but the plate was sour and a little too bitter. Time and air did good. The nose developed aromatic nuances (layers of iron and minerals) and the palate soothed and fanned out, allowing the savory side to emerge. (Aug. 4, 2021)

Cloudy Bay, Central Otago, Pinot Noir, Te Wahi, 2017

From the first, you can tell that 1) it's a Pinot Noir and 2) we're not in Burgundy anymore! Cloudy Bay may not have the drawing appeal it had when it was the pioneer New Zealand winery that put the country's Sauvignon Blancs on the map, but this is still a very enjoyable wine. The nose shows strawberries and semi-dry forest floor, as well as a hint of violets. The palate is direct and fruity, without many savory aspects, although I'm not ruling out the possibility that they may well emerge. (July 30, 2021)

Nana Estate, Chenin Blanc, Barrel Reserve, 2020

It says Barrel Reserve on the label, and you sense it, but not blatantly and the barrel work seems to have pushed the flint upfront. Really good work.

Claude Riffault, Sancerre, Les Chasseignes, 2019

Like the best of Sancerre, it’s a condensation of lime and wet rocks. The highlight is a long, salt laced finish. A knockout. (Aug. 8, 2021)

Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pommard, 2017

Lovely nose here: red fruit with a touch of black, flowers, forest floor, hints of minerals and iron. The palate shows an almost surprising soft side of Pommard, with touching clarity of fruit and a saline aftertaste. Very pretty, if not especially complex or powerful. (Aug. 8, 2021)

Domaine Alain Chavy, Bourgogne Blanc, 2018

This is a wine I run into in restaurants every now and then. I never bother to write down notes, but this has more heft than is usual for it or its peers, as well as creamy sweetness well married to juicy acidity, producing the flavor set of yellow apples, and mouthwatering salinity on the finish. The nose has flint and dried grass that recalls a village Chassage, even though this is a Puligny domaine. (Aug. 11, 2021)



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