Dog Point Vineyard, Marlborough, Section 94, 2019
If Dog Point's regional wine was a classic Kiwi Sauvignon, this punches with all the tense, chalky verve of a Sancerre or a Pouilly-Fumé. Actually, I've drunk some very good stuff from the Loire, but this really beats the very best of them. And it doesn't beat them with craft, it beats them with the exciting flair of a wine that carries the stamp of great terroir with gusto. It's complex, it's artful, it's delicious, it mixes fruit and rock and with joyful ease - and it's totally legit to kill for the intense nose alone. I struggle for apt descriptors because, at the end of the day, this is all about minerals and umami. Wow, wow, wow. (July 5, 2021)
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