Here, There and Everywhere


Chateau du Hureau, Saumur, Foudre, 2016

Hureau are famous for their Cabernet Francs from Saumur-Champigny, but they also make Chenin Blancs from the Saumur appellation (it's a French legal thing, the vineyards are located in the same area as the reds). It's a lovely, beguiling sample. The nose is complex, with honey, wax, chalk, yellow fruit, while the palate shows an oily texture balanced by amazing acidity and spicy pears on the finish. (July 21, 2021)

Jean-Marc Millot, Côte de Nuits Villages, Aux Faulques, 2017

The Côte de Nuits Villages designation covers those villages in the Côte de Nuits Village that never got their own appellation. The Aux Faulques vineyard is located a few hundred meters from the Clos de la Maréchale Premier Cru, from the village of Comblanchien, and under the hands of Alix Millot, this wine is always an over-achiever, showing today red and blue berries, violets, a touch of earth and, in general, extremely lively, pure and fresh fruit. (July 15, 2021)

Moric, Burgenland, Blaufränkisch, 2018

Succulent and lively, red fruit with a well measured helping of leather, raw meat and minerals. Medium bodied with loads of flavors. As always, comes off as a cross between Syrah and Gamay, with a touch of the good humor of a Mozart operetta.

A long time ago, a friend brought a bottle to a tasting. It was an eye opener. Then Eldad Levy started importing Moric. Fun times. Then the fun stopped. But now it’s back. (July 16, 2021)

Sphera, Riesling, 2019

Green apple skin, rain water, a touch of spicy pear, a hint of flint. The big drawback, from my point of view, is that is seems almost too complete for a two year old. (July 20, 2021)

Hermann Loudes, Mosel, Riesling II, 2019

Regardless of what the label says - and "Riesling II" is a very awkward name - this seems to be to be at Kabinett level plus, requiring some air to release its petillance and show peaches, apples and cold slate. (July 21, 2021)



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