Seresin Estate, Marlborough, Pinot Noir, Raupo Creek, 2014
I went on a New Zealand buying binge a few years go and bought a bundle over successive trips to London. This is the last of my Seresin purchases. My experience with New Zealand Pinots, in general and not just Seresin, is that it's not a lusher style than Burgundy. In fact, I sometimes find these Pinots greener and more herbal, but not in a negative sense. Think of a grove cooling off in the sunset shadows after soaking up the sunshine all day. In other words, the herbal tints don't come at the cost of ripeness or fruit. Anyway, the Raupo Creek has a distinct earthy tone, unlike Pinots from other grounds. A couple of hours of air bring out gorgeous red and black cherries aromas with a slightly roasted edge. Lovely, with an upside of five-ten years. (June 19, 2021)
Tzora Vineyards, Shoresh, 2016
(50% Syrah, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot) The signature Shoresh nose, red fruit and pine needles, a good balance of fruit, acidity and tannins. At first, I get savory aromas and flavors that are almost meaty, but the payoff is when the mineral character takes over, roasted rocks bleaching the aforementioned pine needles. The Shoresh red really sort of combusted around the 2014 vintage, and on the successive vintages. (June 6, 2021)
Domaine Arlaud, Gevrey-Chambertin, 2016
The first pour: fresh strawberries, pungent earth, direct, yet nuanced. Three hours later, the fruit grows darker, the earthy elements more pronounced. An excellent latterday Gevrey, a lithe structure, a grainy texture, a calm hand managed the vineyard and extraction. (June 9, 2021)
Cascina Del Torcc, Barolo, 2016
This "bargain basement Barolo" (less than 30 USD in the states) sports a modern label, but what's inside the bottle is far less modern. Don't expect a Giacosa in style, let alone quality, but there's plenty of Barolo character: tar, rose petals and dust on the nose, ample savoriness on the palate. The tannins were soft for such a young wine, and from such a great vintage, but then, I never found out how long the bottle had been opened.
Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru, Clos du Meix, 2016
Fuck me, this is why we drink white Burgundies! Wet stone, lime, pear, the umami finish lingering endlessly... I could just repeat the descriptors ad infinitum, but descriptors are not what this wine is about. What it's about is a femme fatale pressing her blade against your throat as you beg for more. Glorious, golden torture. (June 20, 2021)
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