Time is the great equalizer. People start off thinking one thing about a vintage and then time slowly either erodes the highlights of a great vintage or touches up the wrinkles of a mediocre one (of course, you have great years like Bordeaux 2000, Germany 2001 and Piedmont 2004, whose reputations, so far, have remained untarnished). 2011 was a hot vintage and was not highly regarded. But as the years have gone by, the hidden gems from the cooler sites are being unearthed.
Ovello is one of the coolest sites in Barbaresco, and as this wine has garnered fine reviews and opinions favoring longevity, I wanted to hold on to my one bottle. However, I bought it during a very hot spring week in Milano and I never really trusted its provenance and then, all of a sudden, it was Thursday!
The nose is alluring from the first pour, sour red cherries, mint, lavender - damn if it isn't one of those "I'm walking through wild country hills" bouquets. Pure magic, a complex nose that explodes, evolves, expands and captivates as it becomes darker and deeper. The tannins are still demanding, but convey a sense of fine precision and they lay out a firm foundation for finessed, dark red fruit flavors with a savory center and finish. (May 6, 2021)
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