Pierre Duroché crafts lithe, elegant Gevreys, across the range. From the family's village plots, he crafts a blended village wine, as well as four lieux-dits. The Jeunes Rois, a.k.a. the young kings, is arguably the best, at least the most aristocratic and refined, in my experience. It's finely balanced and fresh, red fruit embellished by notes of violets, upturned earth and gunpowder with a lovely, palate-cleansing finish. It has the complexity and poise of a Premier Cru and close to the depth of one. All that separates i from a Premier Crut, really, is some length and body, but with a wine so delicious, that's really splitting fine hairs. (Apr. 24, 2021)
Luis Pato, Bairrada, Vinha Formal, Parcel Candido, Cercial, 2017
It's been a while since I've had a great bottle of a Candido. This is a real pleasure. The acidity was too low in 2018, but while it it's still on the low side even here, in 2017 it gets the job done, really lifting the fruit and driving it to a palate cleansing, saline finish. I always love Portuguese wines, but the nose here just blew me away, with a unique blend of unearthly minerals and pears. Might be the best white Portuguese I've had since the Niepoort Coche last summer. (Apr. 25, 2021)
Guimaro, Ribeira Sacra, Blanco Cepas Viejas, 2019
Made of Godello, the white signature grape of Ribeira Sacra and Bierzo, from very old vines. The nose shows light reduction, just enough to underline the minerals and the delicate notes of sea weed, then floral notes. The palate is taut, at balance between breadth and focus. Although I have little knowledge of, or experience with, Godello, I would wager on a few years of cellaring. The 100 NIS price tag would make a laughingstock of many competitors, at its niche or higher up the food chain. (Apr. 26, 2021)
Selbach-Oster, Mosel, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Riesling Spätlese, feinherb Ur Alte Reben, 2015
The 2012 was a wine I discovered even before Eldad started importing Selbach-Oster and it was excellent. This is even better. It’s taut and focused without being stern. The classic Mosel formula, green apples and icy rock, combines with the feinherb style (I would say, the body and weight of a Spätlese with the sweetness of a Kabinett) for a precise balance of sweetness and acidity, breadth and steely form. (Apr. 27, 2021)
Comments