Selbach-Oster, Mosel, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Riesling Spätlese, 2012
Seems I've managed to drink a whole lot of these without realizing just how many. They've always seemed come off like a giant lemon sherbet that hugs you even as you try to suck it dry. With some maturity, that heavenly sweetness is now wrapped in aromas of flint and hints of freshly baked bread crust. Very good focus and zest. (Apr. 21, 2021)
Tzora Vineyards, Misty Hills, 2011
On the nose, at first only dusty pine needles and slightly sweet currants, later a wealth of nuanced notes of rock and black pepper. The palate shows a similar combination of sweet black fruit and savory tannins. This flagship red has matured very well and is showing refined and complete and elegance, the best Israeli red I've had so far. (Apr. 9, 2021)
Brovia, Barolo, 2015
My go-to young Barolo, black cherries, black tea and truffly earth. It's either the vintage or a phase it's going through, but there's a permeating sweetness on the finish that is only resolved once air brings the tannins to the fore. (Apr. 10, 2021)
Cota 45, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, UBE Miraflores, 2019
Caftory and Eldad Levy import. Ramiro Ibáñez, is the winemaker behind Cota 45. Ramiro, a native of Sanlúcar, "is striving to revive traditions and express the unique terroir of Jerez" and what this means in the case of this wine is an unfortified, single vintage, single vineyard manzanilla. Manzanilla is the lightest style of Sherry, along with Fino. As well, Finos and Manznillas are usually the saltiest sherries, more cashews than walnuts, and always dry. The Miraflores, sans fortification, has exceptional acidity, as well as the funky weirdness of the Tenerife wines Caftory and Eldad import, but with greater focus. Maybe my love for Sherry has biased me, but I really like this more than the island wines. UBE Miraflores is a wine made from Palomino Fino from the Pago de Miraflores, Miraflores Alta and Miraflores Baja vineyards, so you can guess what the name represents. After fermenting in Sherry butts, it is aged for 8 months in selected butts, allowing the wine contact with the famous Sherry yeast, flor, only for the last 2 months, so it has only a modicum of flor impact, just enough to provide the brine and cured meats character I love so in dry Sherries and a lovely, salty finish. (Apr. 22, 2021)
At first, this feels dirty, but it clears up to show earthy fruit with a modicum of complexity. Three hours later, the final two glasses finally show complexity and depth, as well as NSG iron and spices. That, and the complex way the palate contrasts a velvet texture with a rusty finish, are enough to edge it into Premier Cru class. It's not in the same league as the glorious 2005, though. (Apr. 24, 2021)
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