Seresin Estate, Marlborough, Pinot Noir, Noa, 2013
From my experience, this wine requires time, but even the first try shows a fascinating personality, unlike what Pinot shows elsewhere: cherries roasted in earth, leather and truffles. The palate is sterner than a Bourgogne peer, although I hesitate to see that as a fault, but rather as a character trait. I would just call it a green streak that some might object to; me, I like it, it makes the wine come off as a marriage of Morey and Barbaresco. (Mar. 13, 2021)
This shows a herbal, almost garrigue-like aspect of the Baga grape. The texture of the palate is luxurious and fleshy, yet focused at the same time; fruity, not overtly so, without the depth of a great, mature wine. The nose isn't very complex, but creates the impression of admirable depth with a shortlist of elements. (Mar. 14, 2021)
Barbeito, Sercial, Ten Years Old Reserve
This is my favorite in the Ten Years range. It's the most unique and savory. God knows where to start describing it. Carmel toffee, roasted pecans, Atlantic salt, bacon fat, on the nose, echoed on the palate with orange jam and lemon tea for company. (Mar. 15, 2021)
Elio Grasso, Langhe Nebbiolo, Gavarini, 2017
A lovely mixture of black cherries, dust and salt, echoed on the palate, which is softer than a Barolo, naturally, but with the same puckering bitterness of youth I'd expect from a Nebbiolo of high pedigree. I quite like the saline/brothy finish, reminiscent of beef stock. I'd buy more to lay down, it's one of the few in its class that make me feel it deserves a place in the cellar. (Mar. 18, 2021)
Chateau du Hureau, Saumur-Champigny, Lisagathe, 2016
The Lisagathe is sourced from 60 year old vines grown on clay soil. This is richer and denser than I'd expected from a Cabernet Franc, almost lavishly red, adorned with spices, some graphite - and just a wisp of brett, but not enough to sully the fruit. I used to buy Hureau plenty back in the day. My first encounter was with a 1997 Lisagathe in 2005. It was the first Cabernet Franc I'd ever tasted and the memory of the redness of the fruit is still quite vivid for me, even now. I used to swoon over dirty stink back then, and if the 1997 Lisagathe had any brett in it, it didn't register to me as a blatant fault - I simply adored the vivid clarity of the red fruit and overlooked any stink. But later vintages I tried definitely sweated in the glass. I notice the label says Philippe et Agathe Vatan nowadays and its tempting to pin the diminished level of brett to a woman's sensibility, but who knows. (Mar. 19, 2021)
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